Hello everyone quick question does anyone know where you can get numbers such as 1331 for tactical numbering on tanks?
I'm doing 1st SS heavy tiger company kursk and i need those type of numbering any suggestions.
FMJ
Tac Numbers
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FMJ,
GHQ makes some pretty good decal sets with "just" tactical numbers. Check out their on-line catalog -- for WW II German numbers, I think the sets are D-5, D-6 and D-7 (not sure I'm getting this in the right order, but those are white, red and black decals). I think most are three-digit numbers, but if I recall correctly, there are some four-digit decals also. If you are looking for a specific series of numbers that is not on the sheet, you could probably "piece" them together... just make sure you have a very sharp knife to get a "clean cut" between the numbers you'd be "splicing together" -- and a magnifying glass of some sort will be helpful, too!
Regards,
Tom
GHQ makes some pretty good decal sets with "just" tactical numbers. Check out their on-line catalog -- for WW II German numbers, I think the sets are D-5, D-6 and D-7 (not sure I'm getting this in the right order, but those are white, red and black decals). I think most are three-digit numbers, but if I recall correctly, there are some four-digit decals also. If you are looking for a specific series of numbers that is not on the sheet, you could probably "piece" them together... just make sure you have a very sharp knife to get a "clean cut" between the numbers you'd be "splicing together" -- and a magnifying glass of some sort will be helpful, too!
Regards,
Tom
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
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GHQ's German Tactical numbers only cover companies 1-9 and then three battalions and regimental level company HQ tanks. Each of the companies is good for the first three platoons plus company HQ troop. What they do not cover are companies 10 and higher, or S (heavy) company designations, or N (signals), or the foruth platoons. What I do to get past this is buy two of each set and cut and position them to make the numbers I need that are not covered. It works well enough - just takes a lot longer to put the decals on when each one is in multiple pieces.
It is kind of interesting that they have battalion HQ's I-III, yet they only have the 9th company for the third battalion. Many of the panzer regiments that had three battalions had only three companies but numbered them 1-3, 5-7 and 9-11 as the standard organization for an abtielung was four companies, the shortage of tanks sometimes meant that the only three would be fielded in combat.
Chris
It is kind of interesting that they have battalion HQ's I-III, yet they only have the 9th company for the third battalion. Many of the panzer regiments that had three battalions had only three companies but numbered them 1-3, 5-7 and 9-11 as the standard organization for an abtielung was four companies, the shortage of tanks sometimes meant that the only three would be fielded in combat.
Chris
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[quote="Luca"]Hi, this is a correlated question: How do You protect the decals when they're on the model, to prevent to taking them away with fingers? I didn't found anything usefull yet, I just always take the model from the rear, and not from the turret.
Thank You![/quote]
I use a very heavy spray of Testor's Dullcote, sometime two coats
One thing when using it (which I learned here) is to spray it in the shade, preferably in cool weather. Otherwise, the particles begin to dry when they are in the air and look a bit odd.
Pat
Thank You![/quote]
I use a very heavy spray of Testor's Dullcote, sometime two coats
One thing when using it (which I learned here) is to spray it in the shade, preferably in cool weather. Otherwise, the particles begin to dry when they are in the air and look a bit odd.
Pat
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Luca,
Seconding what Pat (Ferrett701) said -- use two (or even three, if you anticipate "heavy" handling!) LIGHT coats of Dullcote... just a "dusting" on each pass, if you will. What you want to do is build up to a heavy coat -- but not too quickly!
Dullcote, if I recall correctly, is a lacquer-based clear coating -- and "too much" lacquer will "attack" the paint, decals, etc. (but not metal) surfaces it lies on. However, do not be afraid to apply the Dullcote -- I have used it on nearly every imaginable modeling surface, in light coats, and have never had any problem with the lacquer "attacking" the surface below it. The trick is light coats.
Having said that... the "Dullcoted" surfaces I've painted have withstood repeating handlings over many years, on many different subjects -- model railroading, micro armor, ships, figures, scenery, etc. I'm really sold on the stuff!!
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Tom Stockton
Seconding what Pat (Ferrett701) said -- use two (or even three, if you anticipate "heavy" handling!) LIGHT coats of Dullcote... just a "dusting" on each pass, if you will. What you want to do is build up to a heavy coat -- but not too quickly!
Dullcote, if I recall correctly, is a lacquer-based clear coating -- and "too much" lacquer will "attack" the paint, decals, etc. (but not metal) surfaces it lies on. However, do not be afraid to apply the Dullcote -- I have used it on nearly every imaginable modeling surface, in light coats, and have never had any problem with the lacquer "attacking" the surface below it. The trick is light coats.
Having said that... the "Dullcoted" surfaces I've painted have withstood repeating handlings over many years, on many different subjects -- model railroading, micro armor, ships, figures, scenery, etc. I'm really sold on the stuff!!
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
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One add on to my previous post... I forgot to mention let dry thoroughly between coats of Dullcote. In fact, there are very few places where let dry thoroughly is not appropriate... maybe if you're trying to blend colors or weathering or something like that.
Something I learned -- the hard way -- very early in my "modeling career" was to have patience between steps, especially where paint or glue was involved. As a kid, I don't know how many kit pieces got "mis-aligned" or fingerprints got left in a painted surface because I did not wait for a liquid to let dry thoroughly! Eventually, I learned to have some patience... and sometimes, I still get caught up in the "rush" that comes from trying to finish a project. I guess in some ways, I'm still just a big kid!
And as we all know:
"The only difference
between the man and the boy
is the size and the price
of the toy!"
Of course, in our case... the "toy" has gotten quite a bit Smaller!...
Regards,
Tom Stockton
Something I learned -- the hard way -- very early in my "modeling career" was to have patience between steps, especially where paint or glue was involved. As a kid, I don't know how many kit pieces got "mis-aligned" or fingerprints got left in a painted surface because I did not wait for a liquid to let dry thoroughly! Eventually, I learned to have some patience... and sometimes, I still get caught up in the "rush" that comes from trying to finish a project. I guess in some ways, I'm still just a big kid!
And as we all know:
"The only difference
between the man and the boy
is the size and the price
of the toy!"
Of course, in our case... the "toy" has gotten quite a bit Smaller!...

Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
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That's what I had to do. Not too bad but can be fiddly when you have just 1 number to work with instead of 2 from the decal. These pics are some of the 1/2 tracks I did it on.kgpanzer wrote:I am not sure but can you cut and paste those numbers together? from other sets of numbers?
Ar
http://www.picturepuppy.com/images/john359rt/sdkfzb.jpg
http://www.picturepuppy.com/images/john359rt/sdkfza.jpg
http://www.picturepuppy.com/images/john359rt/sdkfz1.jpg