ALPS Printer anyone?

[av8rmongo]

Does anyone have an ALPS printer - or any printer that will print white? I need to make some decals for my ships and Kinkos doesn't have a clue what I'm talking about.

Paul

[tstockton]

Just "pinging" this one back to the top... Paul, I'd hoped (and still do!) that you'd get a "positive" reply to this one!

I always wanted to get one of those ALPS printers, and was disappointed to hear that they are no longer being made. Always thought it would be cool to make my own decals, especially (and specifically!) in white. I bet someone could make a wee bit of "pocket change" just doing this for folks...

Regards,
Tom Stockton

[Extra Crispy]

Can you do it in reverse on clear? For example, make the white parts clear, then paint flat white where the decalgoes so it will show through? Then tidy up the edges?

Just thinking out loud here.

[tstockton]

Extra Crispy,

Don't know for sure about the ALPS printer -- but for printing decals, the answer would be "no". The reason is in the "composition" of decal paper. If I understand it correctly, the layers in the "do-it-yourself" decals are (from top to bottom):

(1) Your decal -- printed with an inkjet or laser printer, painted by hand, silk-screened, what-have-you...

(2) A clear "carrier film", which covers the entire sheet

(3) A very thin layer of water-soluable glue

(4) The backing paper

Soaking the cut-out decal in water soaks through the paper to the water-soluable glue. As the glue "dissolves", it releases the top two layers from the backing paper, thus allowing the user to place the decal on the model without the backing paper.

Commerically-available decals, especially for "larger scale" models, often "print" that clear "carrier film" in areas which are then covered with the desired image (insignia, number, whatever...). Thus, all you have to do is cut out the general area around the desired decal. However, this takes a more advanced printer and/or a more advanced process -- and thus, the decals are more expensive. Other manufacturers just cover the entire sheet with the clear "carrier film" -- it's easier and cheaper to do. This leaves it up to the "end user" (us!) to trim as closely around the desired decal, to eliminate as much of the "carrier film" as possible before soaking the decal to release it from the backing sheet.

Good idea though...

I have heard of modelers in larger scales -- especially model railroaders, wanting to letter a sign on a building -- painting the "target area" in the desired final color -- then applying dry-transfer lettering to the area -- then overspraying the area with the "surround color" -- then, after letting the "surround color" dry, using tape to "peel off" the dry transfer lettering. The results are the dry-transfer lettering acts as a mask, protecting the "target area", while allowing the rest of the area to be finished in the desired color. I guess one would do this if dry-transfer lettering was not available in the desired color. Seems like a lot of work to me... but, hey! To each his own!

Regards,
Tom Stockton

[Mobius]

My friend has one. He got it on ebay. Might check there.

[tstockton]

Mobius,

A couple of years ago, I watched a few ALPS printers being sold on eBay -- but they were going for a lot more than I felt I could reasonably pay... so I just kinda quit watching.

My concern now would be whether ALPS or a "second party" manufacturer would still be making the supplies -- especially the inks (or more likely, paints??) that the printer would use. Decal paper seems to be rather easy to acquire -- I've seen it advertised by many on-line retailers. But the print cartridges... that's a different matter.

Another concern would be replacement print heads -- often a concern on the longevity of a printer.

Ah, well... just another place where life is inconveniently "imperfect"! (sigh)

Regards,
Tom Stockton