Hi,
I have bought GHQ grass and vegetation for my terrain board. I tried to cover a hill as a test piece with the grass but i had a hard time getting a good coverage.
Should a glue it with PVA glue? Water it down? What color should i paint the board with before i glue down the grass?
/Michael Fransson
GHQ grass coverage
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tstockton
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Stylistic,
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you on this sooner -- been "out of touch" for a couple of days...
This is a copy of a post on the "Show us yer stuff!" thread, in answer to a question there -- I hope you find it of use as well!
Regards,
Tom Stockton
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you on this sooner -- been "out of touch" for a couple of days...
This is a copy of a post on the "Show us yer stuff!" thread, in answer to a question there -- I hope you find it of use as well!
Hope this helps!I've always been "skeptical" of the method of applying a coat of paint, then applying any kind of ground cover (foam, static grass, sawdust, whatever) -- and expecting the coat of paint to "hold on" to the ground cover.
The method I use to to paint my ground and let dry. Then I "paint" the area I want to cover with a mix of white glue and water -- about 65-70% glue / 30-35% water -- then immediately apply the chosen ground cover. As soon as I apply the ground cover, I lightly tap the cover into the glue with my finger (this does NOT work well for static grass, as it mashes the fibers down into the glue, negating their effect). Once again, let dry thoroughly...
My final step, after applying any other scenic elements (such as shrubs, bushes, etc.) is to soak the area with a white glue / water mix -- 50-50 mix of Elmer's White Glue and water, with a drop or two of liquid dishwashing detergent to help the mix "soak in" to the scenery. One more time... let dry thoroughly.
Even with this, I occasionally get a small amount of scenery "breaking loose" -- after all, nothing is perfect! But my terrain is pretty firmly attached, and I've had very little trouble with it.
One other note -- when I use static grass, I lightly "mist" the finished terrain with cheapo hair spray. It seems to help, but it's not quite as firmly attached as my other terrain. I've heard of guys airbrushing the cheapo hair spray to get a finer mist... but since I don't use an airbrush, I've never tried this method.
Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
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tstockton
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Stylistic,
I use cheapo paint brushes -- plastic handle, ten for a dollar or so, like kids use at school. And since I'm using white glue and water, they clean well with a little soap and water when I'm done. And if I forget... I'm out a ten-cent brush. No big deal!
[edit starts here...]
Upon looking at my answer, I may have answered the wrong question... let me elaborate...
When I apply the glue and water before the ground cover, i "dribble" on some white glue, then a few drops of water, then "smoosh" it all around with a cheapo paintbrush.
Later, after applying the scenic elements... I apply the white glue / water / drop or two of liquid dishwashing detergent in an old white glue bottle. I fill the bottle about halfway with glue, add about the same amount of water (leaving a little air at the top), and a drop or two of detergent. Then shake well to mix -- then apply. I just open the bottle a little bit, hold it upside down over the terrain about an inch or so above the terrain, and let a drop at a time drip onto the terrain.
As an aside -- I always do this over old newspapers or something to soak up the white glue / water mix that will inevitably flood over the side of the hex... I also sit the hex on a few paint bottles so the runover will drip onto the paper and not glue the hex to the paper... guess how I found out that happens!?
As the white glue / water mix soaks into the terrain, it (the terrain) will eventually look like its been flooded with milk. This is actually good, because you'll be able to see where the mix isn't and be able to apply more in those areas you've missed. Don't worry about the "milky" appearance -- because the white glue / water mix dries to a matte finish! Of course, if some of it floods an area you want to be glossy -- like a river or stream -- you will have to re-coat the glossy area after the white glue / water mix has fully dried. (I use Future floor polish, a liquid acrylic finish that dries very glossy, for my water areas.)
If I've not been quite clear here, please feel free to ask for clarification!
[end edit]
Regards,
Tom Stockton
I use cheapo paint brushes -- plastic handle, ten for a dollar or so, like kids use at school. And since I'm using white glue and water, they clean well with a little soap and water when I'm done. And if I forget... I'm out a ten-cent brush. No big deal!
[edit starts here...]
Upon looking at my answer, I may have answered the wrong question... let me elaborate...
When I apply the glue and water before the ground cover, i "dribble" on some white glue, then a few drops of water, then "smoosh" it all around with a cheapo paintbrush.
Later, after applying the scenic elements... I apply the white glue / water / drop or two of liquid dishwashing detergent in an old white glue bottle. I fill the bottle about halfway with glue, add about the same amount of water (leaving a little air at the top), and a drop or two of detergent. Then shake well to mix -- then apply. I just open the bottle a little bit, hold it upside down over the terrain about an inch or so above the terrain, and let a drop at a time drip onto the terrain.
As an aside -- I always do this over old newspapers or something to soak up the white glue / water mix that will inevitably flood over the side of the hex... I also sit the hex on a few paint bottles so the runover will drip onto the paper and not glue the hex to the paper... guess how I found out that happens!?
As the white glue / water mix soaks into the terrain, it (the terrain) will eventually look like its been flooded with milk. This is actually good, because you'll be able to see where the mix isn't and be able to apply more in those areas you've missed. Don't worry about the "milky" appearance -- because the white glue / water mix dries to a matte finish! Of course, if some of it floods an area you want to be glossy -- like a river or stream -- you will have to re-coat the glossy area after the white glue / water mix has fully dried. (I use Future floor polish, a liquid acrylic finish that dries very glossy, for my water areas.)
If I've not been quite clear here, please feel free to ask for clarification!
[end edit]
Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
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Pitfall
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If you thin the glue/water mix down enough, you can apply it with a spray bottle. Spray, let dry and spray again. Woodland Scenics makes a similar product that works pretty well, but it costs $10 a bottle. The upside to the Woodland Scenics stuff is that it contains latex and can flex a little bit.
Also, make sure you clean the spray bottle out with hot water IMMEDIATELY after use. I found that out the same wat Tom found out about the newspaper underlayment...
Also, make sure you clean the spray bottle out with hot water IMMEDIATELY after use. I found that out the same wat Tom found out about the newspaper underlayment...
I wish I had something witty to say...
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Xveers
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I actually use a children's medicine dropper I got at a dollar store. With soap mixed in, it's perfect to apply just the right amount of scenery adhesive (watered down of course) wherever you want. I tried the spray bottle method, but I found it both wasteful, and it had a tendency to disturb my terrain.
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jb
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The best method I found is; Paint your foam an earthtone color,let it cure.Next mix white glue ( I use Elmers glue) mixed with an earth tone acrylic color ( buy mine at Michaels-very cheap) and a little of Woodlands sceneic cement. Mix all this thoroughly. Brush on with a large brush making sure you cover the whole peice to be done. sprinkle on your flocking. Let ths cure at very least overnight.
At this point I now take Woodlands Scenic cement and apply by airbrush. I find this extremely economical,and guess what? None of my stuff falls off like when I used to apply by that spray bottle! I have to admit that the first time I applied by airbrush I was very skeptical because of the small amount of cement that was used to actually cover the project. My guess is that when applying with AB I have more velocity with the cement going in deeper which gives better adherence.
At this point I now take Woodlands Scenic cement and apply by airbrush. I find this extremely economical,and guess what? None of my stuff falls off like when I used to apply by that spray bottle! I have to admit that the first time I applied by airbrush I was very skeptical because of the small amount of cement that was used to actually cover the project. My guess is that when applying with AB I have more velocity with the cement going in deeper which gives better adherence.
John
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tstockton
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jb,
What do you use to clean your airbrush after you spray the scenic cement? And do you have to take it apart to clean it -- or will just spaying with the "proper cleaner" do the trick?
I don't use an airbrush -- yet -- but I forsee the day coming when I'll bite the proverbial bullet and shell out for a compressor, booth, etc. And I'm just mentally cataloging "tips and tricks" for that day.
I'm also thinking about a model railroading "trick" I've read about... the gist of it was to apply a layer of static grass (using a proper applicator) and letting dry -- then spraying a scenic cement with an airbrush and then immediately applying a second layer of static grass... and so on until the desired height and look was achieved. As I recall, the guy who did this used different colors of static grass -- a darker green for the first layer, lighter green for second layer, pale yellow for the third layer, etc. Said it very subtly gave depth to the finished product... and sounded rather intriguing to me. Something else to file into the mental "must try someday" folder!
Regards,
Tom Stockton
What do you use to clean your airbrush after you spray the scenic cement? And do you have to take it apart to clean it -- or will just spaying with the "proper cleaner" do the trick?
I don't use an airbrush -- yet -- but I forsee the day coming when I'll bite the proverbial bullet and shell out for a compressor, booth, etc. And I'm just mentally cataloging "tips and tricks" for that day.
I'm also thinking about a model railroading "trick" I've read about... the gist of it was to apply a layer of static grass (using a proper applicator) and letting dry -- then spraying a scenic cement with an airbrush and then immediately applying a second layer of static grass... and so on until the desired height and look was achieved. As I recall, the guy who did this used different colors of static grass -- a darker green for the first layer, lighter green for second layer, pale yellow for the third layer, etc. Said it very subtly gave depth to the finished product... and sounded rather intriguing to me. Something else to file into the mental "must try someday" folder!
Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"
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jb
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Tom,
I just spray water through the airbrsuh when done applying the cement. ( I keep a little water and medicine dropper nearby for this).
I then empty the vessel that held the cement and refill with water and spray about half of that through. I've not had any problems yet with this procedure. I beleive the "trick" is to do the cleansing ASAP.
I just spray water through the airbrsuh when done applying the cement. ( I keep a little water and medicine dropper nearby for this).
I then empty the vessel that held the cement and refill with water and spray about half of that through. I've not had any problems yet with this procedure. I beleive the "trick" is to do the cleansing ASAP.
John