I've read that the GHQ acrylic paint is best if thinned. What should I thin it with? Water? Or something else?
Can Testors Dull Cote be applied over acrylic paint?
If I'm painting with acrylics, do I still do the wash using the enamel paint and turpentine?
Is the wash applicable to all models regardless of the vehicle type, or is it done only on certain specific vehicles such as tanks?
Many thanks in advance from someone just starting out with his first GHQ models (Toyota Technicals pick-up trucks).
Help with Painting
Moderators: dnichols, GHQ, Mk 1
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Noremac
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 11:56 pm
- Location: Etobicoke, Ontario, Canada
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Nazgul
- E5
- Posts: 343
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2005 1:24 pm
- Location: Mid Missouri
Everyone has something that works best for them. I prefer enamel paints, first because as hard as I have tried I have never had any luck with acrylics and I dry brush alot. Second reason is that if I want to soften the edges between colors of paint all I have to do is spray a light mist of paint thinner over the model (in a well ventilated area!) and it "melts" the paint slightly and blends the edges. Have to be careful because too much will actually remove what you have just painted.
I used to make washes with enamels, but have recently discovered the acrylic washes from Games Workshop and like them better, still experimenting with how to use it correctly. I have used a 6 parts thinner to 1 part paint to make an enamel wash (some like 10 to 1), might work for acrylic (have read several threads that really suggest using distilled water to prevent problems with minerals in the water effecting the paint pigment).
I know those who use Dul Coat over their acrylic painted minis and they suggest a light coating, too heavy and they say it cracks as it dries or it becomes glossy.
You might want to check out sites that deal with model railroading or large armor kits. I've found that several of their techniques work well with micro armor, though I've never tried using pastel chalk dust to simulate dust and road grime (hmmmm).
Found this a while ago, hope it helps:
http://themodelmakersresource.co.uk/art ... le003.html
Experiment on some old figures first to find what works best for you and then have fun with it. Good luck and post some pictures.
I used to make washes with enamels, but have recently discovered the acrylic washes from Games Workshop and like them better, still experimenting with how to use it correctly. I have used a 6 parts thinner to 1 part paint to make an enamel wash (some like 10 to 1), might work for acrylic (have read several threads that really suggest using distilled water to prevent problems with minerals in the water effecting the paint pigment).
I know those who use Dul Coat over their acrylic painted minis and they suggest a light coating, too heavy and they say it cracks as it dries or it becomes glossy.
You might want to check out sites that deal with model railroading or large armor kits. I've found that several of their techniques work well with micro armor, though I've never tried using pastel chalk dust to simulate dust and road grime (hmmmm).
Found this a while ago, hope it helps:
http://themodelmakersresource.co.uk/art ... le003.html
Experiment on some old figures first to find what works best for you and then have fun with it. Good luck and post some pictures.
-
Mk 1
- E5
- Posts: 2383
- Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 3:21 am
- Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Re: Help with Painting
Noremac:
Greetings, and welcome to our little corner of the web!
I have no experience with GHQ's paints, but much experience with various paints in general. So my replies should fit well enough.
My first over-arching comment, though, is this: there is no one "right" way to do things. You will find on this forum many different techniques being discussed, often with the results well illustrated for your consideration.
As a beginner I understand your quest to see "how it is done". So fine, I will provide my own answers. But don't be surprised if others do things a bit differently. Try it out, see if you like your results, post some pics, get new suggestions, and then try something else to add to your "toolset" of techniques.
As for me, I wash with acrylics, rather than enamels or inks.
My technique:
1 ) Priming: I prime my models white. I use an enamel spray primer. My favorite is Floquil's, but I can't find it often enough, so most often I wind up using Testor's Model Master brand. More recently, by suggestion of folks on this forum, I have also tried Krylon brand (from the auto parts store). It is far cheaper, and seems to work just fine.
2 ) Base coating: Depending on the national force I am painting, I often base-coat with Testor's Model Master brand spray enamels. Soviet tanks are quick and easy -- prime, base-coat in medium green, and get to the detailing and washing. Mass production! But other nations need a more custom approach. Sometimes my base-coating is done with a brush using acrylics.
3 ) Camo and detailing: My prefered brush-on paints are Polly-S acrylics. I really like the smoothness, the way it flows more easily than most other acrylics, and the very flat finish. But the variety is not always available at my local shops. So I have several Tamiya acrylics (pretty gooey stuff), and now even a few Vallejo acrylics (well regarded by many on this forum). With both of those brands I find I must thin the paint before using it.
4 ) Washes: Overall black washing is done after camo but before detailing I wash my whole models with Polly-S "Grimy Black", thinned 10-to-1 with water, with just a touch of dishsoap. I just touch the paintbrush to the bottle top, and then use the brush to stir the wash -- it helps break the surface tension and lets the wash flow better. Dirt/rust washing is done after detailing (after wheels or tracks are painted). I wash my truck chassis and tank tracks and running gear with Polly-S "Rust", thinned 5-to-1 with water and a touch of dishsoap.
5 ) Dry-brushing: Again I do the whole model, every model. I dry-brush with a light shade of the same (or similar) color to the base-coat. This can be created by mixing white or a light yellow with the base color (at about 2-to-1). But more often I just choose a very light color that seems to be related to the base color. So for example on Olive Green (U.S.) or Medium Green (Soviet) tanks I use Polly-S "Sahara Sand", which is a light beige color with green tones. But for Afrika Mustard or Italian Camo Yellow vehicles I use Polly-S "Desert Sand", which is an almost-white very light yellow.
I strongly suggest you check out the "Show us Yer Stuff" thread. It is LONG, but you are not required to read it all for a one-day homework assignment.
Many very talented micro-armor hobbyists have posted extensive descriptions of their techniques, and pictures of their results. It is remarkable how much there is to learn. But don't be intimidated by the totality -- you don't need to learn everyone else's techniques. Just find an approach that you like, give it a try, and see if you get results that please you. Oh, and post some pics, so we can all be pleased too!
Greetings, and welcome to our little corner of the web!
I have no experience with GHQ's paints, but much experience with various paints in general. So my replies should fit well enough.
My first over-arching comment, though, is this: there is no one "right" way to do things. You will find on this forum many different techniques being discussed, often with the results well illustrated for your consideration.
As a beginner I understand your quest to see "how it is done". So fine, I will provide my own answers. But don't be surprised if others do things a bit differently. Try it out, see if you like your results, post some pics, get new suggestions, and then try something else to add to your "toolset" of techniques.
Yes, you thin acrylic paints with water.Noremac wrote:I've read that the GHQ acrylic paint is best if thinned. What should I thin it with? Water? Or something else?
Yes. I do it all the time.Can Testors Dull Cote be applied over acrylic paint?
You should be able to. Make sure you allow enough time for your paint to dry thoroughly before washing.If I'm painting with acrylics, do I still do the wash using the enamel paint and turpentine?
As for me, I wash with acrylics, rather than enamels or inks.
I wash all my models. Tanks, trucks, airplanes, guns, infantry figures -- they all get washed.Is the wash applicable to all models regardless of the vehicle type, or is it done only on certain specific vehicles such as tanks?
My technique:
1 ) Priming: I prime my models white. I use an enamel spray primer. My favorite is Floquil's, but I can't find it often enough, so most often I wind up using Testor's Model Master brand. More recently, by suggestion of folks on this forum, I have also tried Krylon brand (from the auto parts store). It is far cheaper, and seems to work just fine.
2 ) Base coating: Depending on the national force I am painting, I often base-coat with Testor's Model Master brand spray enamels. Soviet tanks are quick and easy -- prime, base-coat in medium green, and get to the detailing and washing. Mass production! But other nations need a more custom approach. Sometimes my base-coating is done with a brush using acrylics.
3 ) Camo and detailing: My prefered brush-on paints are Polly-S acrylics. I really like the smoothness, the way it flows more easily than most other acrylics, and the very flat finish. But the variety is not always available at my local shops. So I have several Tamiya acrylics (pretty gooey stuff), and now even a few Vallejo acrylics (well regarded by many on this forum). With both of those brands I find I must thin the paint before using it.
4 ) Washes: Overall black washing is done after camo but before detailing I wash my whole models with Polly-S "Grimy Black", thinned 10-to-1 with water, with just a touch of dishsoap. I just touch the paintbrush to the bottle top, and then use the brush to stir the wash -- it helps break the surface tension and lets the wash flow better. Dirt/rust washing is done after detailing (after wheels or tracks are painted). I wash my truck chassis and tank tracks and running gear with Polly-S "Rust", thinned 5-to-1 with water and a touch of dishsoap.
5 ) Dry-brushing: Again I do the whole model, every model. I dry-brush with a light shade of the same (or similar) color to the base-coat. This can be created by mixing white or a light yellow with the base color (at about 2-to-1). But more often I just choose a very light color that seems to be related to the base color. So for example on Olive Green (U.S.) or Medium Green (Soviet) tanks I use Polly-S "Sahara Sand", which is a light beige color with green tones. But for Afrika Mustard or Italian Camo Yellow vehicles I use Polly-S "Desert Sand", which is an almost-white very light yellow.
I strongly suggest you check out the "Show us Yer Stuff" thread. It is LONG, but you are not required to read it all for a one-day homework assignment.
Many very talented micro-armor hobbyists have posted extensive descriptions of their techniques, and pictures of their results. It is remarkable how much there is to learn. But don't be intimidated by the totality -- you don't need to learn everyone else's techniques. Just find an approach that you like, give it a try, and see if you get results that please you. Oh, and post some pics, so we can all be pleased too!
-Mark 1
Difficile est, saturam non scribere.
"It is hard NOT to write satire." - Decimus Iunius Juvenalis, 1st Century AD
Difficile est, saturam non scribere.
"It is hard NOT to write satire." - Decimus Iunius Juvenalis, 1st Century AD