Micronaut Only Thread

dragon6 · Post by **dragon6** » Sat Sep 12, 2015 10:49 pm

from Mr Scheef's useful Consolidated Micronaut Wish List Summary comes:

Thirty-eight votes:
WWII USA aircraft carrier Yorktown (CV 5) class, 1942 appearance

from other comments I've come to realize that Enterprise and Yorktown are sisters but Hornet is different. What are the gross visual differences between them? If it's not visible in 1/2400 then I don't see it as a problem but others, more knowledgible than I, do. So what are the differences?

Or perhaps I don't understand and it's actually something to do with the 1942 date?

DAVIDNOLA62 · Post by **DAVIDNOLA62** » Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:07 pm

I for one am certainly worried about running out of my quickly dwindling supply of Colourcoat paints. I do have a list of Vallejo colors for WWII naval, that is "as close as possible" to the real colors. I found it on the Internet and if I could remember who created the list, I would gladly give them credit. As it uses non-GHQ paints, I guess I had better just say PM me if you'd like the link to its location in my Dropbox.

dragon6 · Post by **dragon6** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:06 am

DAVIDNOLA62 wrote:I for one am certainly worried about running out of my quickly dwindling supply of Colourcoat paints. I do have a list of Vallejo colors for WWII naval, that is "as close as possible" to the real colors. I found it on the Internet and if I could remember who created the list, I would gladly give them credit. As it uses non-GHQ paints, I guess I had better just say PM me if you'd like the link to its location in my Dropbox.

Testors does a comprehesive collection of American paint colours in both enamel and acrylic. They have Royal Navy 507 A, B, C, IJN Maizuru, Kure, and Yokosuka also in enamel, RN 507 A and C in acrylic. Some German RAL/RLM paint colours in both enamel and acrylic.

Testors' website is...problematical at least to me. For the enamels look for Model Masters, then International Military & Figure Enamel Paints then Naval Enamel Paints.
For their acrylics Model Masters, then acrylics then each colour tab to locate the one you want

grrr for instance grey or blue. No Italian naval colours alas.

Tamiya does XF-75 Kure and XF-77 Sasebo acrylics

DAVIDNOLA62 · Post by **DAVIDNOLA62** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:24 am

Colourcoat paints are still fairly easily available on eBay, but the prices are quickly getting rather ridiculous

Donald M. Scheef · Post by **Donald M. Scheef** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 1:24 am

There's not a lot of difference between Yorktown (CV 5), early-war Enterprise (CV 6), and Hornet (CV 8). The only visible difference I can find is that Yorktown and Enterprise had Mk 33 gun directors while Hornet had the later Mk 37 gun directors. There may have been other differences, but I can't see any in the references I have available now. (Next week I will be home and be able to get into additional material.)
The date is significant because Enterprise had significant modification to her appearance in a 1943 refit.

Don S.

dragon6 · Post by **dragon6** » Sun Sep 13, 2015 4:31 am

Donald M. Scheef wrote:The only visible difference I can find is that Yorktown and Enterprise had Mk 33 gun directors while Hornet had the later Mk 37 gun directors. There may have been other differences, but I can't see any in the references I have available now. (Next week I will be home and be able to get into additional material.)
The date is significant because Enterprise had significant modification to her appearance in a 1943 refit.

Don S.

And Yorktown had a significant modification to her appearance in 1942

Everyone is entittled to their opinion but there some choices I don't understand. Like why does no one do South Dakota for late 1942? Or why does no one do Portland for 1942?

Granted I find 1942 to be the most interesting period of the Pacific naval war

dragon6 · Post by **dragon6** » Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:06 am

Personally I prefer acrylics, like GHQ's, but for the fans of these there was a link, at TMP, that these paints are back in production at sovereign hobbies

Begemot · Post by **Begemot** » Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:21 am

Just recently completed the Shokaku and the Graf Spee.

Shokaku:

The deck markings are all cut and paste from white 1 mm line decals.

Graf Spee:

Graf Spee is based on the final scheme she wore at the end of her career as shown in Asmussen & Leon's "German Naval Camouflage, Volume 1".

av8rmongo · Post by **av8rmongo** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 1:07 am

For those interested in modern micronauts it looks like Viking Forge has expanded their lines. Maybe they're just new to me but there are some new ships for PRC, ROC, France and I think Japan but I have to double check that. Not as detailed as GHQ but plenty detailed for gaming and they're 40% cheaper.

Cheers,
Paul

dragon6 · Post by **dragon6** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:26 am

av8rmongo wrote:For those interested in modern micronauts it looks like Viking Forge has expanded their lines. Maybe they're just new to me but there are some new ships for PRC, ROC, France and I think Japan but I have to double check that. Not as detailed as GHQ but plenty detailed for gaming and they're 40% cheaper.

Cheers,
Paul

He added 4 to the PLAN, no new ROC, France or Japanese models. There is a new USN model, Mercy, and several new photos, along with a new model or two in the USN WW2. At least one new Liner, with picture, in the UK WW2. Also a new WW2 German Liner with picture.

av8rmongo · Post by **av8rmongo** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 9:44 pm

dragon6 wrote:
av8rmongo wrote:For those interested in modern micronauts it looks like Viking Forge has expanded their lines. Maybe they're just new to me but there are some new ships for PRC, ROC, France and I think Japan but I have to double check that. Not as detailed as GHQ but plenty detailed for gaming and they're 40% cheaper.

Cheers,
Paul
He added 4 to the PLAN, no new ROC, France or Japanese models. There is a new USN model, Mercy, and several new photos, along with a new model or two in the USN WW2. At least one new Liner, with picture, in the UK WW2. Also a new WW2 German Liner with picture.

I guess I hadn't looked at their website in a while and didn't see the French LaFayette or ROC Kang Ding models up before.

dragon6 · Post by **dragon6** » Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:19 pm

av8rmongo wrote:I guess I hadn't looked at their website in a while and didn't see the French LaFayette or ROC Kang Ding models up before.

There are some more transports in the USA WW2 section and another AMC in the UK WW1 and a USA WW1 transport.

Nice additions to the logistic side and you can't have too many targets... I mean victory counters in the game

Besides, I like auxiliaries

Someone needs to make HMS Otranto so we can finish the Coronel OB

edited because I don't know the difference between Taranto and Otranto

Thanks Don

SKeeM · Post by **SKeeM** » Thu Oct 29, 2015 8:15 am

Begemot wrote:Just recently completed the Shokaku and the Graf Spee.

Shokaku:

The deck markings are all cut and paste from white 1 mm line decals.

Graf Spee:

Graf Spee is based on the final scheme she wore at the end of her career as shown in Asmussen & Leon's "German Naval Camouflage, Volume 1".

Very clean looking ships. good job!

Begemot · Post by **Begemot** » Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:12 am

SKeeM - Thanks for the comment. Appreciated.

traveller · Post by **traveller** » Thu Nov 26, 2015 6:17 pm

I've been reading through this thread and have found it to be very helpful in honing my modelling skills. One thing that I've noticed is that a lot of you fellow modelers are short on soldering skills. Soldering is quite easy, what is needed for brass or white metal is a good quality liquid flux with a 9% phosphoric acid content and various solders with different melting points. Paint on to the brass a small amount of the flux and touch the iron to the metal. The solder will be sucked on and just go to the flux. Do that to both parts ( called tinning ) place the parts together and heat. The solder will melt and join together. Remove the heat and do not move till the solder re-hardens. One thing to remember is that you can't use your fingers to hold the parts. Make jigs from M.D.F. and use small tools etc.

To join the brass to the white metal you'll need a temperature controlled iron. You can buy these or make one from a dimmer switch connected to a socket. The switch breaks only the live, the neutral goes straight to the socket. You will need to calibrate the switch by slowly turning up the heat till the low melt solder melts but the white metal doesn't. When that point is reached mark the base plate and the rotary knob of the switch. Tin the brass with your normal solder as that helps the low melt adhere to the brass. Tin the white metal with low melt and touch the two together and heat till the low melt flows and leave till set.

If you're using a brand new iron and bit you'll need to tin the bit before the first use. Do this by painting the bit with flux and coating with normal solder and wipe on a damp sponge to clean the bit. Clean the bit on the damp sponge anytime you feel the bit needs a clean.

Hope this helps anyone who feels nervous about soldering. Best advice is to give it a go, practice makes perfect. Use a cheap etched brass kit from our model railway brothers to practice on. If anyone else wishes to correct me or add to this post feel free.

Micronaut Only Thread

Hornet vs Yorktown

White Ensign paints

Skokaku and Graf Spee

Re: Skokaku and Graf Spee