Pete's Place

[foxbat]

Ah, I'm seconding Hoth's question. I apply the wash before the gloss seal, but this made me think.

[pmskaar]

Thank you very much, Hoth! I appreciate it.

Hoth and Foxbat. To answer your question about applying gloss first and then washing, I do not put any gloss on except where the decals go after the wash.

The theory is that the gloss will basically repel the wash to make it flow into the recesses and away from the raised and or flat areas. I have never actually tried this so I don't really know. I may experiment with this on a model to see how it goes.

When I paint my models, I lighten the base color a bit to allow for scale and also knowing there will be a very slight darkening when the wash is applied. Once the wash is done I do go and highlight any raised areas where I want more emphasis.

I hope this helps but I am happy to answer any further questions.

[pmskaar]

I have agreed to do some commission work for a friend of mine. This is not something I normally do but have done some work for him in the past as well as now.

As payment for this work, I agreed to take some micro armor in exchange. Part of this exchange was 10 T-34/85s that I had painted for him over 10 years ago as well as some unpainted ones. These are now in my collection.

Here are a few pictures of my "new" T-34/85s on my parade ground.

[pmskaar]

Here is a more close-up picture.

[redleg]

Beautiful tanks, Pete!

[pmskaar]

Thanks very much, Redleg!

Here is one more that is closer up. The antennas on these are a bit bent up due to being in a box that was not quite deep enough. I will rectify these at some point.

[Hoth_902]

Pete, nice T-34s.


One follow up question on the wash technique. Do you coat the whole model evenly or do you just apply the wash around the detail? I need to do some touchup, but then it's too the wash stage.

[pmskaar]

Hi Hoth

Thanks very much!

I wash the models all over and then let them set for a bit. I then use a clear turpentine wash to move the dark wash into all the recesses.

I sometimes bake the models after the first wash in order to set it. This is definitely after the clear turpentine procedure. If I have any areas that need more wash (usually) I will spot wash those areas as above.

I hope this helps.

[Hoth_902]

Pete,

I think that covers it.

[pmskaar]

Hi Hoth

If you have any more questions, just let me know.

[pmskaar]

The last three weeks or so, I have been working on some more buildings for my terrain set-ups. Right now, I am working on some Russian buildings which include some by GHQ, some by Timecast, and some by Leva.

I have finished six of them so far and have pictures of the first three that are done. Two by GHQ I really like and the third by Timecast which is also very good as well. Here are a few pictures.

[foxbat]

Great job on these isbas, Pete. The logs look really accurate, do you finish them up with a light grey dry brush?

[redleg]

Those buildings look awesome Pete! I wanna move in!

[pmskaar]

Thank you very much, Foxbat and Redleg!

Foxbat, I did not drybrush any pure gray on the logs for these. The color I came up with for the base color was a mix of Humbrol #110 Wood plus #64 Light Grey. I also used a light gray primer and white undercoat before my base coat.

I used my dark brown wash to accentuate the recesses between the logs and other details. I did do some drybrushing and highlighting with gray mixed with brown to make things stand out a bit. My goal was to make the wood look more weathered but not too gray in appearance.

My first couple GHQ wooden Russian buildings were completed at least 15 years ago or more. Back then, I did not add any gray to the mix and the buildings do look a bit newer than these because of it.

[chrisswim]

Pete,
Nice house, those look like custom shacks.