@ Zephyr
I just take the roof from the building and place my infantry inside Though, at lot of people use big stands and small or non detachable roofed houses, which makes this impossible.
I've seen some other creative stuff too btw, like IanH: http://www.iandrea.co.uk/wargames/6mm/b ... uildt.html
I play the rule when a stand doesn't fit, it simple can't be placed there. So if an infantry squad stand can't fit in my church tower: too bad. You would have to move a smaller stand there (like a MG in my games). And if my tanks (not based), don't fit through the street or can't be placed between the trees: too bad, it has to find another way!
Is anyone interested in some 1/285 scale (well Z scale actually but close enough) railroad track? I took a straight and curved section of commercial z-scale track and made a mold for resin casting. The track is on a raised ballast bed of about 3 mm height. I'll post some pictures of the resin tracks and ones I'm painting up tomorrow. PM me if you're interested - nominal charge to cover materials expenses and postage.
Paul
“It's a beautiful thing, the destruction of words.â€
― George Orwell, 1984
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.
- George Orwell
Oops sorry I forgot about posting competitors sites on here.
I tend to cramp too much stuff onto my bases to and make it hard to fit vehicles in amongst the buildings. However I try and balance that with wide roads and lots of open spaces such as parks and squares etc.
Okay, I did a quick paint job on the railroad tracks I talked about the other day. This first picture has an example of what it looks like when it comes out of the mold and some that are painted. The ends are the coupling notches used in the z-scale track used as a test subject. Because they don't cast well I sand them down on the belt sander. The resulting pieces are about 3-3/4 inches for the straight pieces and 5-3/4 inches for the curved ones.
This second shot shows the painted ones more clearly I hope. Because the cross section of the mold is so thin the top part of the rail I-beam doesn't always cast well and they are pretty fragile when they are present. To manage expectations, I wouldn't expect to be able to actually run z-scale rolling stock on these. The second one from the top is most afflicted by this.
This last one is just an example of a layout by a grain elevator.
Paul
“It's a beautiful thing, the destruction of words.â€
― George Orwell, 1984
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.
- George Orwell
what kind of railroad bridge? The stone arch kind or the metal girder kind? We're fortunate enough to share size compatibility with z scale trains.
Here's my current terrain board, comprised of GHQ hexes, woodland scenics grass and bushes, paper terrain buildings, a few JR Miniatures and another brand of buildings bought through eBay (I'm going out on a limb and saying Leva?). The hexes are attached by craft magnets to a cheap piece of sheet metal from home depot.
I'm not happy with the current color scheme (this was my first terrain board attempt) because much of the grass is golf course green, and the dirt seems too orange, so I'm planning a major overhaul in the near future. Open to critiques and comments besides those two glaringly obvious points.
Its a sniper rifle, not a "sniper"! You don't call an assault rifle an "assault"!
First Command Master Gunnery Staff Sergeant Major First Class of the Army (1CMGSSMFCOTA, E-25)
Well, this is a family friendly forum so the girls are there, I just asked them to stay on the far beach - the one closest to the ship - so they wouldn't offend anyone.
Paul
“It's a beautiful thing, the destruction of words.â€
― George Orwell, 1984
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.
- George Orwell
HKurban - nice terrain. I like the buildings - they look great. I can see what you mean about the golf course look though. Just dab some slightly different shades of green here and there and should look OK.
Paul - love the sea effects. That water looks cold - like the English Channel in Summer!
You could try drybrushing the grass brown, light green and sand to provide some variation to the colours. I have a great link from another manufacturers blog but I'd better not post it here (PM me if you want it). Or instead of brushing airbrush some patches with different shades of brown and sand colours.
Very cool terrain av8rmongo. Most wargamers islands you see are pretty bland but those are great.
Though, at lot of people use big stands and small or non detachable roofed houses, which makes this impossible.
