Some European Terrain boards - updated 9/10/12
Moderators: dnichols, GHQ, Mk 1
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I'd like to play on that terrain board when you've got it done. Very cool!
Thanks for showing the photos. What is your opinion of the Timecast models, what is their quality like on arrival? Their photos look like they make really nice stuff. Just curious what they're like live?
Thanks
RedLeif
Thanks for showing the photos. What is your opinion of the Timecast models, what is their quality like on arrival? Their photos look like they make really nice stuff. Just curious what they're like live?
Thanks
RedLeif
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These are Gamecraft and very nice with minimal cleanup required (if any). However they have no details on the back so you need to add some and/or something to cover the roughness of the backs of the buildings (the top of the mold)
I like Timecast a lot but I found them expensive to post to NZ and the ranges didnt cover what i wanted for WW2 Normandy. They are well cast with only a few airbubbles. Also I found them quite a lot bigger than my other buildings so i would have had to go almost exclusively with Timecast, and I didnt want to ditch a lot of my other buildings. very nice buildings though.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Kieran
I like Timecast a lot but I found them expensive to post to NZ and the ranges didnt cover what i wanted for WW2 Normandy. They are well cast with only a few airbubbles. Also I found them quite a lot bigger than my other buildings so i would have had to go almost exclusively with Timecast, and I didnt want to ditch a lot of my other buildings. very nice buildings though.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Kieran
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Really looking good. Here are a few photos that might give you some ideas.




Allen Rockwell
Owner, GameCraft Miniatures
GHQ Fanatic since 1978
My Micro Armor Blog www.allensmicroarmor.com
Owner, GameCraft Miniatures
GHQ Fanatic since 1978
My Micro Armor Blog www.allensmicroarmor.com
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Hi,
Kieran - Thanks for the notes on the Timecast products. I'm not surprised when you report then as a little bigger than some of your other models, as that firm produces a range of Z gauge model RR products and I am guessing their '6mm' models are a little closer to that scale. But I'm always on the look out for good WWII era Soviet building products and they make some nice ones.
Allen - VERY Nice, as always! Thanks for sharing.
RedLeif
Kieran - Thanks for the notes on the Timecast products. I'm not surprised when you report then as a little bigger than some of your other models, as that firm produces a range of Z gauge model RR products and I am guessing their '6mm' models are a little closer to that scale. But I'm always on the look out for good WWII era Soviet building products and they make some nice ones.
Allen - VERY Nice, as always! Thanks for sharing.
RedLeif
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They are by Gamecraft as said by Kieran.
II have a comment. They are tipically European, in particular the house with mansard roof is tipically French but I see them more in a street of Paris (or some other large town) than in the average Norman city.
It would be imnteresting .to know iwhat original inspired the mnufacturer.
II have a comment. They are tipically European, in particular the house with mansard roof is tipically French but I see them more in a street of Paris (or some other large town) than in the average Norman city.
It would be imnteresting .to know iwhat original inspired the mnufacturer.
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Thanks for the ideas and the new buildings Allen (although something was missing). Very nice work!
I have one of those bridges so you've also given me a good idea on how to use it. Have you ever thought of making a back detail piece for your buildings? Something thin that could be glued onto the back to hide the parts with no details?
Cheers
Kieran
I have one of those bridges so you've also given me a good idea on how to use it. Have you ever thought of making a back detail piece for your buildings? Something thin that could be glued onto the back to hide the parts with no details?
Cheers
Kieran
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Hi all
I've been slowing working on the buildings adding extra details like downpipes, chimmleys, windows lintels and so on. The buildings are quite flat so hopefully the extra detail will add more of a 3d effect.
I mentioned on thisr forum about the lack of detail on the back of the Gamecraft buildings and 2 days later they produced a new range of perspex building backs. This will save a lot of work scratch building details for the back although I will probably still add some more myself.
I'll start painting these next week as I need to finish them by Feburary and I wont get anything done in December!





This building has an archway so I got out the dremel and cut the arch right through so that it can open onto the back of the buildings

And some more town layouts showing the 30/60 degree angled corner pieces and how I can combine them to make interesting shaped towns. I just need to figure out how to make the roads! The bases are meant to be Spearhead sized except the corner pieces which are designed to have 90mm long edges to macth up with the 90x90 Spearhead bases.



Cheers
Kieran
I've been slowing working on the buildings adding extra details like downpipes, chimmleys, windows lintels and so on. The buildings are quite flat so hopefully the extra detail will add more of a 3d effect.
I mentioned on thisr forum about the lack of detail on the back of the Gamecraft buildings and 2 days later they produced a new range of perspex building backs. This will save a lot of work scratch building details for the back although I will probably still add some more myself.
I'll start painting these next week as I need to finish them by Feburary and I wont get anything done in December!





This building has an archway so I got out the dremel and cut the arch right through so that it can open onto the back of the buildings

And some more town layouts showing the 30/60 degree angled corner pieces and how I can combine them to make interesting shaped towns. I just need to figure out how to make the roads! The bases are meant to be Spearhead sized except the corner pieces which are designed to have 90mm long edges to macth up with the 90x90 Spearhead bases.



Cheers
Kieran
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Looking good mate. The extra little details you are adding will really add a lot to them.
Looking forward to seeing the finished results.
Looking forward to seeing the finished results.
Allen Rockwell
Owner, GameCraft Miniatures
GHQ Fanatic since 1978
My Micro Armor Blog www.allensmicroarmor.com
Owner, GameCraft Miniatures
GHQ Fanatic since 1978
My Micro Armor Blog www.allensmicroarmor.com
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I agree. I've been thinking of redoing my middle east stuff, especially adding graffiti and things like that. Driving around Bahrain every day I'm starting to appreciate just how cluttered the outside of a building can be. Cables, a/c units and all the other stuff that gets hung on the side of houses not to mention the human element of laundry, bikes, trash bins or whatever.AllenRockwell wrote:Looking good mate. The extra little details you are adding will really add a lot to them.
Looking forward to seeing the finished results.
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Hey guys
I just checked i and noticed this old thread had been revived! I haven't used google to map out anything and try to make stuff fit in with my table or rules. Most of the time i just wing it!
I have painted a couple of those buildings but I didn't much further with basing them (i'll post pictures later)
Also with the terrain board I removed the interlocking edges for a number of reasons which you can read on this link below. Mostly because they were starting to perish and were not durable enough, and I think the edges look cleaner now. And that means I can create different sized boards and create some smaller ** CENSORED ** boards eg a fixed motorways, rivers, coastlines and so forth.
Since making these I sold the boards. Someone commissioned me to make some boards and I ended up selling them mine instead, but I have a few half finished boards kicking around. As I started on the new boards I realised I could do them much better and changing the edging gives me a lot more options.
Changes to the boards
http://6mm.wargaming.info/page354.shtml
Before

After

I just checked i and noticed this old thread had been revived! I haven't used google to map out anything and try to make stuff fit in with my table or rules. Most of the time i just wing it!
I have painted a couple of those buildings but I didn't much further with basing them (i'll post pictures later)
Also with the terrain board I removed the interlocking edges for a number of reasons which you can read on this link below. Mostly because they were starting to perish and were not durable enough, and I think the edges look cleaner now. And that means I can create different sized boards and create some smaller ** CENSORED ** boards eg a fixed motorways, rivers, coastlines and so forth.
Since making these I sold the boards. Someone commissioned me to make some boards and I ended up selling them mine instead, but I have a few half finished boards kicking around. As I started on the new boards I realised I could do them much better and changing the edging gives me a lot more options.
Changes to the boards
http://6mm.wargaming.info/page354.shtml
Before

After

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Paul,
Was reviewing some GHQ posts and found your comment on the terrain boards. Regarding the range of open areas, the average intervisibility in Germany, in other words, the firing distance between significant terrain features, is generally regarded as being around1500 meters. This stat figured significantly in the Soviet tank sight configuration. Not being a gamer, I don't know how that works out, but it might make for easier for figuring the size of a gaming board.
Was reviewing some GHQ posts and found your comment on the terrain boards. Regarding the range of open areas, the average intervisibility in Germany, in other words, the firing distance between significant terrain features, is generally regarded as being around1500 meters. This stat figured significantly in the Soviet tank sight configuration. Not being a gamer, I don't know how that works out, but it might make for easier for figuring the size of a gaming board.
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Pogo was right. So was Ike.
"A Gentleman is a man who is only rude intentionally." (Churchill)
Give credit. Take responsibility.