Vietnam Thread

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pibber
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Location: France (Luzarches, near Chantilly)

Vietnam

Post by pibber »

Hi guys :D !

Thank you very much for yours comments !

To "chrisswim" :
Yes those models are manufactured by another company :cry: . I would prefer GHQ's models (my favorite company :wink: ), but for M35 guntruck's scratchbuilding, GHQ's model was not the best to me :roll:
The other company offer a model easier to cut and transform to make guntrucks.

I have to cut tarpaulin on cab, rear panels on models and add few armor plates (very fine Evergreen plactic card glue with cyanocrylate).
Then, I glue small parts : radios, soldiers, weapons (scratchbuild with spare parts from HMG WWII US infantry halftrack and GHQ's Helo gunship Bell UH/1), accessories, antenna,..
Names's trucks are real names, I have seen them on Vietnam's veterans pictures...

Image

Image

To 6mmwargaming :
Thank you for your comment :wink:
And about the rugby world cup, I love this sport, so, I think french team are really need to be lucky because I feel "all black" are better and stronger than french rugbymen this year.
But at last, I'm hurry to see this big shock next sunday ! I hope it will be a beautiful rugby match :) (cororicooo !!! :lol: )

LVTP5
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NVA type63
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T-55 (I would have prefered T-54's version but no company do this essential model like GHQ's standart quality :( )
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ZIL-157 (very beautiful model from GHQ :wink: ) for "Ho Chi Minh trail" ...
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US Barrack :
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:wink:
Pibber.
(Long life to GHQ !)

jb
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Post by jb »

Pibber, OUTSTANDING!!
Image

Image
John

Nazgul
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Post by Nazgul »

WOW!!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

That is truly beautiful work. What did you use to weather the vehicles? Could you post a tutorial or two on how you do it?

Cris

pibber
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Location: France (Luzarches, near Chantilly)

painting

Post by pibber »

hello Nazgul ! :D
(first, sorry for reply delay :oops: )

All those models are painting with Humbrol colors. (enamel, not acrylic)

Few years ago, I had post my point of view about painting on this thread : here is what I wrote :
----------------------------
- "In france in the 1/35 modelling world, there is a guy who made a little revolution in paint technics. This man is François Verlinden. He create the "Verlinden way of painting"
His paint technic made very good effects on military models : Hollows on models are fold with very liquid dark color, and surfaces and ridges are lightly drybrush with clearer color. It's not really realistic but it give beautiful effects, we can see more model's details.
Many wargamer used this technic....
The problem is that on the real military materials this is the opposit : the dust and wet mud stay in hollows materials structure while the original material colors appear on ridges !
That's I try to reproduce.

For modelers and wargamers, it's not easy to observ and accept (!) these particuliar details.

So, many wargamer prefer used the Verlinden way, because small figurines have the most visual effect.

However, for me, the good way of painting is the combination of these two different technics. It's not very easy to reproduce. I use Verliden way very ligthly with the combination of my own weathering observations. That's why, my dry brush is not very excessive."-
----------------------------

I'll try to find the time to make a "step by step" personnal painting method in pictures, for one or two vietnam GHQ's model as soon as possible...

Waiting this, here are generalities painting way for my Vietnam vehicules :

1st step :
First coat of paint H116 (Humbrol Matt 116 - US dark green) on all the model.
Let dry 8 hrs or more.

2nd step :
Mix 50% thinner and 50%H33 (Humbrol Matt Black) and paint all hollows with this mixture (not painting the surfaces, only hollows).
If model is a truck, a Ford Mutt or a Cadillac cage commando, paint wheels in black with 100% Matt 33 (black) at last.
Let dry 24 hrs.

3rd step :
Painting all marks (air recognition white stars, lights, plate number, slogans,....)
Let dry 8 hrs.

4th step :
First weahering : mix 30% thinner and 70%H72 (Humbrol Matt light earth) to add dust (in fine touches) in few model's hollows where is neccessary.
If the model is an armored track vehicule, paint tracks with 100%H72.
after, (without waiting the last coat of paint dry) do a very, very light dry brush of H72 next to wheels, tracks, rear of vehicule.
Then, (without waiting the last coat of paint dry), add particular weathering, like gas dirt (in black).
All those colors coats borders lightly mix together and look like "clouds". (This is the effect seen on LVTP5's sides for example)

You can substitute H72 by H160, or H113, or H70 (red rust) on your Vietnam's vehicules, it depend of the place on the location in Vietnam (sometime, earth look like rust in many's parts of Vietnam).

5th step :
Dry brush very lightly all the top and top sides of the model with H116 (dark green)

6th step :
Paint last details, like metalic color on tracks's ridges, headlights respective color, weapons (HMG), soldiers's uniform (in M113 ACAV's turret and hull for example).

I hope this message can help you, wainting for pictures of this painting technic :wink:
Pibber.
(Long life to GHQ !)

pibber
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Post by pibber »

My next Vietnam big project ! An LSD ! :D

I want doing one off the first mobile riverine PBR boats base in Vietnam.
She was a base for 10 PBR, an helo gunship detachment and PACV unit in 1967 !

The LSD is a plastic model from Lindberg, 1/288 scale, WWII version.
(I'm doing bigs modifications for the Vietnam version..)

Image
:wink:

Next step, cutting the hull boat and do a waterline model to play with for wargaming scenarios :wink:

(PACV and Bell Huey are from GHQ,... of course :D )
Pibber.
(Long life to GHQ !)

chrisswim
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Post by chrisswim »

Pibber,
Very nice, indeed!! Wow, great stuff.

We need a Gym to use to put all the terrain out, your 'brown-water navy', then"7.62" air base. Put terrain inbetween such as optctr (too bad he died). Would be great looking stuff.

exodusforever
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Location: Singapore

Post by exodusforever »

Pibber, I gotta give it to you. That is some amazing Wargaming Miniature works there.

Simply astounding. Ur scratchbuild stuff are just out of this world.
IG: modernwargame
"The best weapon against an enemy is another enemy."
-Friedrich Nietzsche

6mmwargaming
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Post by 6mmwargaming »

I thought I'd revive this amazing thread and also I'm probably getting into this period later in this year with 6mm GHQ figures.

Anyway I'm looking for some rules to play company or larger sized games with 6mm figures and vehicles. Prefered scale is 1 base = 1 fireteam or squad and no individually based figures...

Any thoughts on which rules to use? I've looked at Charlie Dont Surf but i'm not so sure as they are a bit well vague. I also have Incoming (the Crossfire variant) but I need to have a closer look at it. Also has anyone tried the Flames of war version?

Cheers
Kieran

6mmwargaming
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Post by 6mmwargaming »

Yes GHQ all the way for me. I will be doing the NVA/VC forces so I will be using GHQ infantry. I dont mind FOW rules either so they are an option. My mate has all the US stuff already so I figure I can use some of my spare Soviet stuff for NVA vehicles.

What other rules is everyone using?


Cheers
Kieran

whoa Mohamed
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Post by whoa Mohamed »

I use from the delts to the DMZ for BN level...and Ambush valley for platoon and company...I have not played them in years but the old GHQ veirtnam rules where good too .....Mikey
every man for all mens rights
all men for every mans rights

Thomaso827
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Post by Thomaso827 »

I just picked up Force on Force and believe the Ambush Valley module would be good. I'm basing 3-4 man fire teams for the FoF stuff as I build an Iraqi army for First Gulf War.

I have been using Piquet Forgotten Heroes for my Vietnam gaming, and they are based a standard 3 figures per base. I use a pointing leader with RTO for US command bases and a pointing leader with prone observer (guy with binoculars) for VC and NVA commands. For the period, only a few snipers are based individually in my armies. Forgotten Heroes is a squad level game, 4 bases of 3 figures = a squad (rules indicate you can base anyway you want so long as both sides are based the same way, but 4 bases of 3 is pretty much the standard used by the author). I convert all measurements to CM and it works very well. I use Litko 20x15mm bases, with the 15mm depth primarily to hold the prone LMG gunners without having their own base hang over.

My only problem so far has been trees, but I just got the GHQ tree packs and have read about them on the forum, so hope to get a few dozen made up this weekend.

It seems that it would be easy enough to use the PK bases as is for FoF though. It would just mean a few more bases with fewer dice each running around the table.

Tom
Tom Oxley, OD Green Old Fart

Thomaso827
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Post by Thomaso827 »

Sorry, duplicate post.. :oops:

Tom
Tom Oxley, OD Green Old Fart

6mmwargaming
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Post by 6mmwargaming »

Thomaso827 wrote:I just picked up Force on Force and believe the Ambush Valley module would be good. I'm basing 3-4 man fire teams for the FoF stuff as I build an Iraqi army for First Gulf War.
Do you make any other changes eg the scale such as 1 base = 1 man or leave it and just take note of casualties?

Cheers
Kieran

Thomaso827
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Post by Thomaso827 »

I'm planning to mark casualties with little plastic rings, color coded for light wound, severe wound or KIA, and when all figures on the base have been hit or removed as wounded, I can pull the base off. You could also find small "casualty caps" on the web or possibly in your minis supply catalog. Casualty caps were popular for larger scale infantry over the years, and probably would fit well over the micro scale infantry. I am just trying to avoid having a lot of clutter on the table, so the little rings will be visible enough without obscuring the troops. Thinking of just writing up vehicle damage that wouldnt show using some vehicle cards that I got the idea for from the FoF forum. Great bunch of folks there. The rings should be available in craft departments where you can get supplies for kids to make jewelry, and you should also be able to find a number of rubber "o-rings" in automotovie or hardware supplies that would work. Just put a color dot of paint on to indicate the level of wound.

Tom Oxley
Tom Oxley, OD Green Old Fart

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