Show us yer stuff!

ACWBill · Post by **ACWBill** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 10:19 pm

Nice work Tom! Its too bad we all live so far apart. We could all put up a gymnasium full of great terrain and figs.

pushbike · Post by **pushbike** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 4:32 am

Hi
Here is a quick picture from Sundays game.
First time I have used my new Terrain Maker, quite pleased.
But need to make a whole more especially trees hills etc.

Kurner · Post by **Kurner** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 8:25 am

Was out at the hobby store and just happened to run into a display of Polly-S paints. Picked up a few to hopefully replace the craft paints. Promptly tested them out on an SU122 when I arrived home. Terrific paints! Thin like oil based, yet still water thinable

I've been having troubles painting road wheels for a while now, but I'm confident that these paints will help with that. In hindsight using the SU122 wasn't the most effective model to paint to test that theory out with - no fiddly details on the road wheels. I'll have to get one of the T34s painted up in the next few days.

I tried to use some of the suggestions I've read here (thanks guys!). Not sure if I was totally successfull in that regard - Not sure if the photo really shows the 'true' look of things.

Bravo on everyone elses stuff. Kevin - those are some amazing looking infantry! And that's some brilliant terrain pushbike, the variations in grass colour is quite nice. Same goes for you Tom, just checked out that bog tutorial, very nice!
You're all giving me so many ideas

HMSDiomede · Post by **HMSDiomede** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 7:27 pm

Kurner wrote: Bravo on everyone elses stuff. Kevin - those are some amazing looking infantry! And that's some brilliant terrain pushbike, the variations in grass colour is quite nice. Same goes for you Tom, just checked out that bog tutorial, very nice!
You're all giving me so many ideas

That's just one of the many reasons I've started hanging out here! The only drawback has been that it makes me realize just how pitiful my older micro looks in comparison.

David

Post by **GHQ** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 12:23 am

This is just a note of thanks to all of you. We have been monitoring this thread, and there is a lot of really fine modeling being shown here. This is exactly the type of thing that we had in mind when we introduced this forum! It is really nice to see what kind of results that you have gotten, and the open exchanges of modeling techniques, hints, and suggestions- all done in a very friendly and supportive way. Once again, thank you to all of you who have made this forum such an informative and pleasant place to visit.

GHQ

8ball · Post by **8ball** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 10:09 pm

Phew! That's a relief. I thought this was going to be the dreaded "We've reached our bandwidth limit, so please stop posting the pics," post.

GMills · Post by **GMills** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 8:28 pm

Click on website for my photos of my stuff.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIn ... 787278&f=0

Matt D · Post by **Matt D** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:59 am

Holy Smokes! GMills, you sure did plant a lot of trees.
That is some great terrain you created. What is it based on?

Paul B · Post by **Paul B** » Sat Aug 20, 2005 2:03 am

[quote="cama
They look excellent Paul!

The soft effect of the paintjob is very nice - looks wet-blended 28mm!

Grant[/quote]

Grant,

Thanks. I started in a second batch of russian vehicles (T-70s). I am not happy with the highlights so I am stripping them again. I need to be more patient and let the minis dry over night before highlighting. (Still expermineting with vallejos)

Again, thank you. BTW, nice LRDG truck. You have prompted me to start a new project.

Paul B · Post by **Paul B** » Sat Aug 20, 2005 11:15 pm

cama wrote: Thank you!

What kind of problems are you having with Vallejo? I mostly paint with them, maybe I can give you some advice.

Cheers,

Grant

I started using the vallejo thinner, as opposed to distileed water. The thinner does not disperse the pigment like distilled water does. The concentration of pigment remains the same. I'm finding that if I am not very careful, I can overload the brush for drybrushing. Not sure if you can provide me with any thinning ratios. I guess this will be more of trial and error.

Hetzen · Post by **Hetzen** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 12:02 am

I find the thicker the paint, the better the dry brush. Thiners tend to make the small amount of paint on the dry brush leave streaks on the model edges.

I've also found that by mixing paint on a piece of clingfilm, I can fold it over once I've loaded my brush, extending the life of the wet paint, which is usefull when mixing tones for drybrushing batches of figures.

8ball · Post by **8ball** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 5:31 am

I usually apply two drybrush coats.

First I apply the base color of the tank. Then I apply the ink wash. Next I drybrush the base color to clean up the areas where I don't want wash. Finally, I drybrush a lightened basecoat to highlight the raised areas. This last drybrush is usually somewhat thinned in order to avoid paint build up.

GMills · Post by **GMills** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:52 am

MattD,
What do you mean about what is it based on? If you mean the boards they are Styrofrom (white). If you meant what area they are from, Fulda Gap area in Germany. they were built back in the early 70s. There is another set there with discolored boards (refinishing) they were were built using paper mache for groung cover. Worked great until it dryed and cracked and started pulling off the surface. I resurface with RockHard now. I like it a lot.

raffraff · Post by **raffraff** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 1:09 pm

Hello again, some of my weekend stuff ...

Show us yer stuff!

Bog