GHQ Models Forums

What color primer does everyone use for their micoarmor: White, Gray, Black?

Thanks
Harlan

I personaly use Armoury Black for most stuff.

I think I'll start using white though on aircraft though, easier to just leave white primer when it has a white bottom.

I hae a friend that swears by white though.

Sean

How much of a difference does the black primer make versus a white primer on the final outcome the the paint scheme?

Thanks
Harlan

Harlan,

Personally, I'm a fan of gray -- particularly, Floquil's Light Gray lacquer-based primer in spray cans. A well-stocked model railroad shop should have it available -- or they will most likely be able to order it for you. The pigment is very finely ground, so details do not get obscured (especially when applied in light coats, which I very strongly recommend with ANY paints). And in my perception and experience, the lacquer-based primer seems to be very durable; more so than an enamel-based, and much more so than an acrylic primer.

As for the other "colors" of primer -- I've read where other modelers swear by either black (to deepen the "shadows" in recessed areas) or by white (to lighten the panels which would be faded by the sun).

I guess the best thing to do is to try each and see which technique works best for you. While I can see the advantages of both the black and the white primers, I am most comfortable working with a "neutral" gray, and adjusting my colors from there.

My two cents worth...

Regards,
Tom Stockton

I forget who's site it was, maybe Ritter-Krieg?'s who had an example of a model that was primed white then another one primed black and both painted up with the same camo scheme.

What it does is definatly make the model darker if it is primed black. Yet I like doin it that way then paint the unit not neccisarily getting it into every nook and crany. Gives it a shaded look I guess.

Everyone has there own preference. What really you'd need to do is try one or two and see what your personal preference is. It could vary well vary from type of vehicle to that your painting.

Sean

Two more cents for what its worth. Never been much of a fan of black because I think it gets too dark for the scale. I've used Tamiya gray primer for about a year and a half and really like the stuff. Recently I've purchased some white (the hobby shop is going out of business, they were out of gray and white was on sale) to see if there is much difference and so far the jury is still out. I think I'll probably stick with gray when it is all over.
My only recommendation is that whatever color you choose use a primer with the finest pigment you can find. Another thing, I had a bad experience with some primer (I don't remember if it was Tamiya or not) that partially dried before it reached the model. The result was a very fuzy appearance on the miniature which I had to scrub off with a toothbrush. I think I posted some pictures in another "To Prime or not to Prime" thread. Look through the other 14 or so archive pages and you'll probably see two or three threads dealing with primer coats.

Hope that helps.

Paul

I used to prime all of my figures black (regardless of scale) the idea being that if I missed a recessed spot it shows up as shadow. In many cases I would use the balck to create an outline around a raised detail to create instant black-outlining.

But I found this "maintain a balck outline" approach and layered painting just as time consuming and tediuous as the traditional "undercoat white and paint the details carefully" approach. Black undercoats can also be difficult to cover in certain colors with less hiding ability (opacity). In fact GW just released a new line of paints to overcome this problem of trying to paint over black undercoats (especially difficult with reds and yellows). And in spraying a black undercoat you will almost certainly miss recessed areas which the spray can't hit. So you either apply too much spray and obscure detail trying to fill these recesses with black spray paint or you lose time by having to brush black paint into the recesses.

So, I switched to a hybrid. I now undercoat white and then apply a thinned base coat of the broadest color over the entire figure. So, if painting a Sherman tank I undercoat white, base coat in slightly thinned olive drab, wash in black, drybursh and then detail.

The thinned base coat provides a nice shaded effect accentuated by the black wash and dry brushing. It also covers any details and recessed spots that I might miss by accident. Finally, it makes painting the details eaiser since they're highlighted and and surrounded by a darker color. Most importantly for those of us with limited painting time it's very quick yet provides decent results.

Timothy OConnor wrote:I used to prime all of my figures black (regardless of scale) the idea being that if I missed a recessed spot it shows up as shadow. In many cases I would use the balck to create an outline around a raised detail to create instant black-outlining.

But I found this "maintain a balck outline" approach and layered painting just as time consuming and tediuous as the traditional "undercoat white and paint the details carefully" approach. Black undercoats can also be difficult to cover in certain colors with less hiding ability (opacity). In fact GW just released a new line of paints to overcome this problem of trying to paint over black undercoats (especially difficult with reds and yellows). And in spraying a black undercoat you will almost certainly miss recessed areas which the spray can't hit. So you either apply too much spray and obscure detail trying to fill these recesses with black spray paint or you lose time by having to brush black paint into the recesses.

So, I switched to a hybrid. I now undercoat white and then apply a thinned base coat of the broadest color over the entire figure. So, if painting a Sherman tank I undercoat white, base coat in slightly thinned olive drab, wash in black, drybursh and then detail.

The thinned base coat provides a nice shaded effect accentuated by the black wash and dry brushing. It also covers any details and recessed spots that I might miss by accident. Finally, it makes painting the details eaiser since they're highlighted and and surrounded by a darker color. Most importantly for those of us with limited painting time it's very quick yet provides decent results.

What he said

Troy

I would like to thank you for all the great opinions. I found it very educational and helpful.

Sincerely,
Harlan

Hope I'm not too late to put in my 2 cents worth...

I have primed with all three. Even used a neutral beige (green-beige) for some years.

If I count by sheer numbers, most of my models were primed with black. Used black for almost 20 years. But almost all of my more recent models (painted over the last 6-8 years or so) have been primed white.

I use spray cans. Don't have an airbrush, and don't plan to get one. My favorite primer is Floquil's. But I don't find their white so often anymore. So more recently I've also been using Testor's Model Master white primer.

Many times I also base-coat with a spray can as well. Testor's Model Master Olive Green for WW2 US Army, Medium Green for WW2 Soviets. Details, and even base-coating for other armies (French, or Italians) are done by hand with Polly-S colors.

I used black primer for many years for the same reason so many others here have suggested -- to cover up places that get missed in the base-coating. More on this in a moment.

I have switched to white because I much prefer the depth it gives to models, and the minor lightening that corresponds to what everyone else calls the "scale effect". Since I am often base-coating from a spray can, there is no path for me to mix in a lighting tone. But the white under-coat seems to have some positive effect.

If you want to experiment, try taking two models, and paint one black, and the other white. Then proceed to paint with your normal techniques, and see which one looks nicer to your eye. For me, the white undercoat seems to enhance the detailing even before I do my dry-brushing.

As to the "gaps" in the undercoat ... one of the reasons I was using black to start with ... I have found that the washes I do take care of any white primer that is not coated. I do a thin black wash over each model, and then also do a rust wash over the entire running gear area (where the base-coat is more likely to miss). Between these two, I don't find any white areas left. So the notion of the black undercoat for "insurance" is really moot in the end.

At least that is my experience.

Thank you for your thoughts Mark I, Harlan

and to add a few more cents to the pile, i found the guys at Resistant Roosters did a write-up and demo of the various priming theories at:

http://resistantroosters.com/hobby/prim ... ming1.html

FWIW, i started with white, but had to throw that can out because it came out really grainy (drying in midair? bad paint? who knows. ). the next can i bought was the floquil grey. it seems pretty good, but i did like the fact that a bit of the white would show through when primed white and thereby lighten the models a bit.

CountRingworm,

If I'm not mistaken, I think Floquil makes a white primer, a black primer, a light gray primer (my personal favorite) and a zinc chromate primer, all in 3-4 oz. spray bottles. I've never had any problem with the Floquil light gray spray bottles... not counting when I've had one for several years that I didn't use up, then couldn't use it for whatever reason (paint too old, clogs I couldn't open, whatever) -- and I can't blame them for that!

As for the "grainy" effect -- I've occasionally seen that, too, usually with either paint that was (a) "cheap", (b) "too old" or (c) I sprayed from too far away, allowing the "carrier" to evaporate (dry) in mid-air while the paint was going from the can to the model.

I've since learned to:

(a) Test spray a small "patch" on something (usually cardboard or the side of the "holding block" I use) and check for graininess

(b) Spray from a closer distance -- usually about nine to twelve inches

(c) Move my painting hand laterally across the area to be painted, and start my spray just before it would paint the model, keep moving across the model, and then stop the spray just after the paint stream no longer hits the model.

(d) ALWAYS do light coats! When using LIGHT coats, you can usually get away with two or three passes from different angles, hitting areas you missed on the first pass. Then let dry thoroughly (VERY important!) before applying a second coat to hit those areas you missed on the first passes.

(e) And when you're done spraying, turn the can upside down and spray two or three seconds to clear the nozzle and the delivery tube. While it wastes a little bit of paint and propellant, this "cleaning" really increases the chances you'll be able to use the can of spray paint the next time you want to!

Much of what I've learned has come from others... but too much has come from my errors -- especially impatience! -- and messing things up so that I either have to clean up my mess and re-do it, accept a lousy job (yuck! ) !or "chuck the whole thing away" and start over from scratch As I've read -- "Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment!"

Regards,
Tom Stockton

yeah, i think that can was just old- it had been sitting in storage for a few years before i got into microarmor. it came out really grainy and ugly.

that floquil is smooth as butter when dry. i'm still undecided when it comes to the color though.

I used to use black primer for my micro armour, but I have using grey primer lately. The colors are brighter than they are on a primered black surface and I figure at this scale, 6mm, having them appear a little brighter makes them look better on the battlefield .