I have been painting miniatures for GW (Warhammer etc...) for a while. I just recently started MicroForce: ACW. What is a good material to use for bases. I started using balsa wood, but i find that it is a little to whimpy for my taste.
I also wanted to suggest that all of you Civil War enthusiasts check the web for re-enacting groups in your area. I started doing it last year, and have had lots of fun. You get to march around, stand on a voley line (but you dont really die!), and live in an authentic period camp for a weekend. Its great when artillery and cavalry units show up. If you like miniature wargaming, you will definately enjoy this!!!
Modeling
Moderators: dnichols, GHQ, Mk 1
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Cpl_Blakeman
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:53 pm
- Location: Lexington, KY
Re: Modeling
I am using clear plastic sheet cut in squares that I got from the local hobby shop. This way you have a base but the tank blends in with the terrain a bit better. I label the back end of the base with the name and number of the tank. If you do this though, don't use super glue as it will fog the clear plastic, use epoxy or some other glue.markdd_2000 wrote:I have been painting miniatures for GW (Warhammer etc...) for a while. I just recently started MicroForce: ACW. What is a good material to use for bases. I started using balsa wood, but i find that it is a little to whimpy for my taste.
I also wanted to suggest that all of you Civil War enthusiasts check the web for re-enacting groups in your area. I started doing it last year, and have had lots of fun. You get to march around, stand on a voley line (but you dont really die!), and live in an authentic period camp for a weekend. Its great when artillery and cavalry units show up. If you like miniature wargaming, you will definately enjoy this!!!
Drink water and live, don't drink water and die.
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Theodore
- Posts: 88
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2006 5:46 am
I use 1 foot square floor tiles, the flexible kind with no adhesive on the back.. I found them in tan for less than a buck at Lowes. I score them and break them by bending on a hard edge of the table. You get 144 one inch squares per tile.
You can even do some modeling on them, since they're thick enough to 'dig' ditches and foxholes in them.
You can even do some modeling on them, since they're thick enough to 'dig' ditches and foxholes in them.
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Extra Crispy
- E5
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- Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 7:56 pm
- Location: Edgewater, NJ
- Contact:
I base all my figures on the pre-cut steel or magnetic bases I sell. I use flat boxes for storage and transport and having them all magnetic saves the wear and tear in transit.
I know some gamers refuse to buy pre-cut bases. But I don't get as much hobby time as I'd like every day so when I get a free night I'm not going to spend it cutting up balsa or tile or anything else. Bases are definitely a buy and not make item for me.
I know some gamers refuse to buy pre-cut bases. But I don't get as much hobby time as I'd like every day so when I get a free night I'm not going to spend it cutting up balsa or tile or anything else. Bases are definitely a buy and not make item for me.
Mark Severin
Owner, Scale Creep Miniatures
Author DeepFriedHappyMice.com
Owner, Scale Creep Miniatures
Author DeepFriedHappyMice.com
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ferret701
- E5
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- Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 8:14 pm
- Location: Northern Virginia
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I use pre-cut metal bases from Wargame Accessories. Haven't tried ScaleCreep's versions, but perhaps I'll give it a shot. They are relatively cheap, at least compared to the minis I'm mounting on them!
I usually just flock them heavily, which gives them as much texture as they need, but sometimes I'll glob wood glue on them to give them some contours. I secure minis with ample amounts of super glue. So far, despite some heavy gaming, I've not had any fall apart on me.
I really like the steel bases, as it makes storage easy. I buy the clear acrylic boxes from the Container Store (about $3 apiece), and cut a chunk of magnetic sheeting to fit, cover with spray glue, and attach. Take 2-3 minutes per box. Magnetic sheeting is cheap -- get the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot designed to cover heat/cooling registers; about $5 for 4 big sheets.
I use 1/2" by 1/2" for command stands and weapons teams, 3/4" by 1/2" for infantry stands (holds three GHQ infantry nicely) and 1" by 1" for artillery pieces (again, holds 1 artillery piece and 4 GHQ artillery crew nicely). I don't mount many vehicles (less than 400 of my 2500 painted minis are on them), but I use 1/2" by 3/4" for APCs and larger ones for tanks, depending on the size.
I always mount large ** CENSORED ** vehicles, like SA-6 launchers for example, as there is no other good way to store them.
There are numerous pictures on my web site.
Pat Callahan
www.microarmormayhem.com
I usually just flock them heavily, which gives them as much texture as they need, but sometimes I'll glob wood glue on them to give them some contours. I secure minis with ample amounts of super glue. So far, despite some heavy gaming, I've not had any fall apart on me.
I really like the steel bases, as it makes storage easy. I buy the clear acrylic boxes from the Container Store (about $3 apiece), and cut a chunk of magnetic sheeting to fit, cover with spray glue, and attach. Take 2-3 minutes per box. Magnetic sheeting is cheap -- get the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot designed to cover heat/cooling registers; about $5 for 4 big sheets.
I use 1/2" by 1/2" for command stands and weapons teams, 3/4" by 1/2" for infantry stands (holds three GHQ infantry nicely) and 1" by 1" for artillery pieces (again, holds 1 artillery piece and 4 GHQ artillery crew nicely). I don't mount many vehicles (less than 400 of my 2500 painted minis are on them), but I use 1/2" by 3/4" for APCs and larger ones for tanks, depending on the size.
I always mount large ** CENSORED ** vehicles, like SA-6 launchers for example, as there is no other good way to store them.
There are numerous pictures on my web site.
Pat Callahan
www.microarmormayhem.com