I've never played FOW myself. But in listening to FOWers at gaming con's and shop game-nights, and in reading the discussions here, I am left to conclude that FOW lacks at least one aspect that is very important to me in micro-armor gaming ... namely it lacks details on the tanks.
I don't want to have my M4A1 1942 production Sherman dropped into the same bucket as my Sherman M4A3 late 1944 production Sherman, much less dropped into the same bucket with Pz 4s, Pz IIIs, T-34s, and Cromwells. Even if several of the above may get the same frontal protection rating, or the same gun penetration ratings, or whatever ... I want to know that a Sherman was slower on a road than a Cromwell, and had better side armor than a Pz 4.
Also, I have seen too many FOW games that are just wheel-to-hub tanks on each side. But I expect that has as much, or more, to do with the game master as the game rules.
I suggest trying some micro-armor specific rules. The Mein Panzer rules suggested in a piror post are excellet -- my current first choice. But they are a little pricey, and a little complicated for beginners in micro-armor. If you've played other miniatures games you can probably handle them just fine. I like them a lot, and the website has a lot of good examples of play, and a lively forum for asking questions.
A simpler ruleset is Jagdpanzer. They play pretty well, a game of a company or so per player can run to decision in a few hours, there isn't much down time while fighting with tables, etc., and infantry has a reasonable place on the board with the tanks. At least, that is what I've seen in the games I've played.
The Jagdpanzer rules have been out of print for a while, but you can still find copies floating around at gaming shops, on eBay, and occasionally from other gamers. James, who occasions this board as "PaloAlto", is owner of a Yahoo! chat group on Jagdpanzer and wargaming:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jagdpanzer/ . He's a very easy guy to get along with, and welcomes most anyone into the discussion. He's in touch with the authors/copyright owners, and may be able to turn you on to any new production runs in the near future. However, the group is in fact mostly a local set of guys in the Silicon Valley who gather for a game about once a month or so. So it may seem like a bit of a closed-club to you from far away.
The suggestion to start with a couple of combat commands is a good one. Determine what timeperiod and front you'd like to play. Late war (1944) is the most popular, with both Germans vs. Soviets (Eastern Front), and Germans vs. US or Brits (ETO) being common. The Western Desert is also very popular, and has a real advantage on the cost and complexity of terrain. A road or two, two or three buildings, and a couple palm trees, and you're done!
Scale the size of your forces to track your table. A relatively small table (a card table, a dinner table) should not have more than one or two companies per side. Larger tables can get up to a battalion, or even a couple of battalions per side. I use a ping-pong table, which allows two or three battalions per side, and still gives enough room to maneuver. It is among the larger tables I've seen used. Most folks find something smaller.
To start off on the terrain, you might try the approach I use. I'm not exactly new at this, as I've been playing micro-armor wargames since the mid-1970s, but I still rely on a pretty basic approach to terrain. Get a colored felt cloth at your local fabric store. Get it big enough to cover whatever table you plan to use. Choose a light green felt for Europe, or a tan felt for the desert. Get some colored tape at your local hardware store -- brown or tan for dirt roads, black or gray for paved roads, and blue for rivers and streams. Get some bagged lichen (railroad hobby shop) to build quick-and-cheap forrests. Get a few micro-scale buildings (GHQ's are wonderful, beautiful buildings, but the variety isn't too big. Maybe OK for your first couple battles. Or go with some cheaper resin-cast buildings from brand-X vendors. Or cheapest of all are the paper/cardboard buildings you can print out on your PC printer and cut-paste into shape, but that requires a bit of an investment in your time.) 6 or 8 buildings should be enough to get you gaming. But you'll never have too many, so expect to keep acquiring.
For elevations (hills) I use corrugated cardboard. Just take an x-acto knife to all those old cartons that are cluttering up your garage. Cut a bunch of shapes, stack a few of 'em up, spray 'em green (or tan) to approximately match your cloth, and you're good to go.
MLuther (on this board) has shown some marvelous terrain using pastel markers on cloth table coverings. He puts things under the cloth to get elevation, and draws his roads, his slopes, etc. right on the cloth. I really like his results, and I've bought my pastels, but haven't tried his approach in a game yet. Sure looks good. But perhaps a bit more involved than just laying down some tape.
Good luck. Give us an AAR (in the AAR thread) when you actually pull it off. We'd all love to hear the tale.