scratch building

[suisse6]

I have a project in mind, however it will require some sort of filler or putty and I was wondering what works best. i know there are quite a few of you who have done some scratch building, I'm starting with a GHQ basic model. It seems to me most putty will not hold or adhere to the white metal of the model. Ideas??? Also anyone tried to match ships' planking? I have a hard enough time with my 1/700 models with that?

[Steel Arrows]

What models are you planning to modify?

[suisse6]

The Baden, I want to modify it in line with the Italian Conte di Cavour class. Cut the hull, lengthen it, add a clipper bow, and new 15 in guns like those from the Bismark and a new funnel and superstructure.

[Mk 1]

In my scratch-building and kit-bashing I have most often used Testor's Plastic Putty or Squadron Green Putty.

I found both to be pretty workable. I did not have too much trouble with adherance. It is important to wash the models first with detergent, and dry them thoroughly. The putties are best applied in relatively thin layering if you are seeking to build up some substantial mass ... maybe 1 to 2mm per layer at a time. If you are using them for structural extensions, though, you might want to build a framework of one or two pins inserted into the hull on both sides, around which you can then fill-in the putty. You can shape it a bit while it is wet, but most of your work will be done by shaving it (with a razor) and filing it when it has hardened fully.

Unfortunately for me I finally determined that I am alergic to these putties, and so had to stop working with them.

Now, for any kit-bashing or scratch building, I use self-hardening clay. It is important to find one that does not shrink as it dries. I use shrinking self-hardening clay for "extras" for my vehicles and figures (sandbags, roled tarps, etc.), and non-shrinking clay for terrain features (tree-holders, trenches and gun emplacements). I haven't done any major scratch-building in a while, though, and am not sure how I would proceed now without using the putties.

[av8rmongo]

I use either Squadron Green Putty as MK 1 suggests or I use a Tamiya white putty which I'm sure is similar to Testors. MK 1 is spot on as usual about preparation, wash the item first and you shouldn't have a problem. One other technique you might consider is to score or scratch the are you plan on applying the putty to. The scracthes will give additional surface area for the putty to affix to and should help prevent it sloughing off in the future.

Good luck! and let us see pictures of your project.

Paul

[Ritter]

In my scratch-building and kit-bashing I have most often used Testor's Plastic Putty or Squadron Green Putty.

Also - there is a product that works well - FIMO bake to harden clay. Its benifits are unlimited work time, excellent detail retention, and it can be used in thick aplications.

Troy

[Nazgul]

I like both of the putties mentioned, but find that the Green Stuff tends to dry fast. I have used low temp candle wax (softens with kneading and body heat) to seal cracks and for projects that I go back to and revise. Surprisingly it does hold enamel paints without problem or priming. Avoid the scented stuff as it has oil in it and the smell LASTS!

As for the decking, if the planking is lengthwise you might consider using a single edge razor set in the opposing grooves and apply gentle pressure to continue the groove through the expansion. ( some sites suggest printing out decking on paper and applying it to the ship (thought I saw it on a carrier thread here too.))

Good luck and send a pix.

Ritter: I thought I saw some pictures of your's with Fimo used for tarps and such. Was it baked on the model or was it left "uncooked" and painted?

[Ritter]

Built on a bare unpainted model and baked. I then broke it off (pretty easy to do) and crazy glued in place. Very durable once fired (in the oven at recommended temp).

Troy