GHQ Models Forums

Is there a suitable substitute for "Future" for making the ink wash? My local military commissary doesn't carry it and I have no idea what to look for on the Japanese economy.

Thanks.
Paul

Back in the 90's I learned of using a drop or 2 of Dawn dishwashing (detergent (the thicker the better). I use this instead of future becasue it doesn't shine when it dries. The soap service the same function of keeping the pigment particles suspended for even coverage.

It has worked well for me.

Just a point that my formula is for a paint based wash as well. Sorry I didn't make that clear in my first post.

Hi
washes are always tricky too get right. After all you have to mix them yourself.
different paints and thinners often give unpredictable results.
However I have started used a pre-mixed wash from MIG.
This stuff is great it goes only where you want it and is the same finish every time.
It is a muddy black colour and I highly recommend it.
Chris.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I found a new hobby shop within about 45min drive so I'll check them out to see if they have anything - then its back to the internet.

Paul

Y'all work much harder on your washes than I do.

I just dilute my standard paint. I use Polly-S acrylics.

For overall black-washing (giving general depth to models) I use Polly-S "Grimy Black", which is a brown/gray-black. I dilute it 10-to-1. I then slather it all over my models from top to bottom. After completely coating about 3 models, I dry the brush on my cloth and go back and beat the models up, re-drying the brush every few strokes.

For more specific washing I dilute at 5-to-1. For example I use Polly-S "Rust" to wash the running gear and tracks of my tanks. I repeat the process of washing 3 or 4 models, and then going back to beat up the washed area with a dried brush. Often I will also blow (more like puff) on the running gear before beating it with a brush. The blowing helps to push the wash back into the recesses, and prevents over-coverage of features like recessed wheels.

In both cases I add a touch of dishwashing soap to my wash. To do this I litterally just touch the brush to the dishwashing soap before mixing my wash. I have found this helps the wash to flow smoothly, rather than bunching up (due to surface tension). Nothing more than a touch, or I find the wash can develop suds, an undesirable result.

I second Pushbike's suggestion on the MIG washes and that's all I use... keep in mind it's oil based though so it's not for everyone.

Also, there is a "neutral" wash color by MIG that I use far more frequently on microarmour than the "dark" wash Chris has pictured. I use it on desert vehicles, dunkelgelb, and other lighter schemes. I use the dark wash for windshields and panzer grey, russian green, and OD colors.

Tanner

The complete future website
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
says

In Japan and the Philippines it is known as "Johnson's Wipe and Shine".

That link is from 2004 but I found the same information with a 2008 link to a different blog.

http://fichtenfoo.com/forum/index.php?a ... pic=3633.0

Don't know if that helps or not but basically you are just looking for an acyrilc based floor polish. If you can get stuff from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AR ... 76-4679247
says they carry it

cama,

i went to my new favorite hobby store in Yokohama and picked a couple of bottles of the GW washes you recommended. I also found a set of paints from MrHobby (apparently a big brand here in Japan) in NATO colors for tanks. Hopefully I'll have a chance to give them a test this week. Thanks for the tip.

For anyone interested I also picked up a 1/288 scale "B-5 Stealth Bomber". Looks like a B-2 to me - not sure how it will ever work into a scenario but for $4 its work the investment.


Paul

cama,

What is your technique for using the GW washes? I tried the black on a destroyed building I was working on and in hindsight I think I should have just gone for the crvices rather than the general slathering I did. I did not really like the results. I was able to apply a few extra coats in some areas that now look as though the building had been on fire or at least had soot buildup. So it looks like a damaged building from arms length but any closer inspection than that looks rather bad.

Any tips?

Mk1 wrote:I dry the brush on my cloth and go back and beat the models up, re-drying the brush every few strokes.

Mk1 - What exactly do you mean by "beat the models up"? I think you've posted stills of your wash technique but I guess I'm having difficulty translating that into actual brush strokes on my models.

Paul