Dullcoating over decals

voltigeur · Post by **voltigeur** » Mon May 16, 2011 11:47 pm

I just finished a large project of aircraft for Texicon next weekend. I'm working 18 hour days this week going into this event.

I'm planning on dullcoating the planes Tuesday night (only night off this week). Is here anything I need to kow before I do this? I want to protect th paint jobs but if I screw up the decals there is no time to redo them.

I plan on standing back and doing 2 light coats vs a heavy one.

Like I said if I screw up I can't fix it so please let me know of anything I need to know.

av8rmongo · Post by **av8rmongo** » Tue May 17, 2011 12:39 am

I don't know what decal "process" you use (micro sol, decal set etc.) But I use Testors brush on matte laquer over the decals prior to spray dulcote over the entire model. It protects the decal from reacting with the spray propellant and Ikii know right away (with only one damaged decal) if the decals are going to go badly. Hope it helps. Post pictures!

Paul

6mmwargaming · Post by **6mmwargaming** » Tue May 17, 2011 3:02 am

I sometimes brush a thin coat of watered down PVA over the decal before varnishing but you need to be careful not to move or damage the decal.

I have had problems with the varnish "lifting" or getting under the edges of the decals and the decal film showing up. I guess any decal setting solution will help prevent that or something to seal it.

I hope that makes sense

Cheers
Kieran

voltigeur · Post by **voltigeur** » Tue May 17, 2011 9:37 am

I don't know what decal "process" you use (micro sol, decal set etc.) But I use Testors brush on matte laquer over the decals prior to spray dulcote over the entire model. It protects the decal from reacting with the spray propellant and Ikii know right away (with only one damaged decal) if the decals are going to go badly. Hope it helps. Post pictures!

Paul

Do you dab it or brush it?

Will have the camera aqt the game at Texicon.

I sometimes brush a thin coat of watered down PVA over the decal before varnishing but you need to be careful not to move or damage the decal.

What is PVA?

Thanks for the help.

BattlerBritain · Post by **BattlerBritain** » Tue May 17, 2011 1:41 pm

PVA is a white semi-liquid wood glue. You can mix it with water to thin it out. Not quite sure what it's called in America. I also use it to help decals stick and it's pretty good.

On the subject of decals I've hard my worst problems with decals lifting when I used some aircraft decals from a guy in the UK called Dom, who makes acrylic based decals, and I was using Humbrol non-acrylic matt varnish to cover them (like I'd always done!). The decals instantly disintegrated as soon as I touched them with the varnish brush. Switching to an acrylic based matt varnish worked.

So make sure you know whether your decals are acrylic or not as well. I think most decals from say, Microscale, are not acrylic based.

av8rmongo · Post by **av8rmongo** » Tue May 17, 2011 7:54 pm

I just brushed it on over the decal. That way if the decal disintegrates as BattlerBritain describes only that one decal is ruined. If it works on one then I do them all before spraying.

Paul

voltigeur · Post by **voltigeur** » Tue May 17, 2011 11:05 pm

I'll do one of my Phantoms first. They will be easier to fix if there is a problem. I checked the I94 web site they recommeded dull coat.

[/quote]Post pictures!

I do need to take pictures in case they get screwed up at the con. But intimidated after seeing your last Israelis. My painting skills are not as good as yours nor are my photography skills. Great job on the last planes you posted.

piersyf · Post by **piersyf** » Wed May 18, 2011 1:32 pm

Mine are all sprayed. Works a treat!
Paint aircraft (I use both hand painted Tamiya acrylics and/or Tamiya spray lacquers)
Spray over with semi gloss clear lacquer (Tamiya)
Apply decals
Overspray with semigloss lacquer. This seems to be an important step to other larger scale modellers to seal in the decals.
Overspray again with Dullcote or Tamiya matt clear.

I occasionally use Mr Mark Setter to fix the decals as microsol is not available in my area. Makes no difference to the painting process.

ferret701 · Post by **ferret701** » Wed May 18, 2011 8:08 pm

I use Dullcote over decals all the time, so far without a problem (and probably have done 400+ models this way). That said, I do use Micro Scale solvent to essentially melt the decals into place first. I typically spray two light coats, though I have also just gone with a single heavy coat.

Several caution re: dullcote (though you may already know): Make sure you use it outside -- it is nasty stuff. However, do not use it in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight, under certain circumstances, can essentially dry the spray while still in the air. When it hits the model, as far as I can tell, it is already partially dried and comes out rough and uneven.

Pat Callahan
www.microarmormayhem.com

voltigeur · Post by **voltigeur** » Fri May 27, 2011 10:35 pm

Well the results were good. Thanks for all of the input. The con went off well good time was had by all.

Also a happy accident: I didn't actually get "Dullcoat" instead I got Matte Laquer. The way that mixed with the chrome paint made my silver planes perfect.

I'll post pics in either "show us your games" or "show us your stuff". Depends on the game write up.

Next question tho. I need shark teeth decals. A buddy suggested that I get an image reduce it to scale and print it off on decal paper. I found an mage that I can print out to do this.

My question is that I have a ink jet type printer. If I print these how do I keep them from running all over the place when they are put in water. I know this has been addressed before but too lazy to dig in the archives.

Has anyone tried this?

Hauptmann6 · Post by **Hauptmann6** » Sun May 29, 2011 10:24 am

I think I-94 makes shark teeth.

BattlerBritain · Post by **BattlerBritain** » Mon May 30, 2011 2:08 am

I always hand painted mine.

It's quite easy: start with the black for the mouth, the the red and then a few white marks for the teeth.

Jobsa-goodun.

Baphomet69 · Post by **Baphomet69** » Sat Jun 04, 2011 8:56 pm

Regarding the self-printed decals, once you print the decals - on special decal paper - (and let the ink dry completely), you seal them with either a spray varnish, or, depending on where you get your decal paper from, they may also have a purpose-made sealer to go with it. One site I have used is decalpaper dot com, you can get clear or white decal paper, trial kits, or kits with all the stuff you need. If nothing else, you can surely get more useful info there.

One thing to note, regular inkjet printers will not actually print white*. The areas that are intended to be white will actually not be printed. You have two options here. You can use the clear decal paper, in which case you'll have to paint a white layer under where the decals go before placing them. Secondly, you can also get white decal paper, but in this case you will have to trim the decal exactly the size/shape you want it (i.e. if you have shark teeth with a black outline, you will have to follow the black outline exactly, or you'll have another line of white outside that).

One last thing, it's best to fill an entire sheet with decals before printing, as due to the sealing process, you'll only be able to run each sheet through the printer once, unless you mess around with printing on half-sheets or something.

*The decal sheets you *buy* are usually printed on a special kind of printer (usually an ALPS, which sadly aren't manufactured any more, to my knowledge) that does in fact print white. That's why you can get 'commercial' decals with white parts.