I've admired the work of those of you who use the Arny Painter washes. I have just purchased the Dark Tone and before I go experimenting I've decided to ask you who are familiar with the product a few questions. Do you gloss coat before applying the wash? Do you dilute the product? If so, at what ratio of product to water? Do you brush on? Do you bake to dry/set? If so, at what temp and for how long? Thanks.
Steve
Army Painter Dark Tone Wash
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Army Painter Dark Wash
Cama
Your work is right up there with the best! I always enjoy seeing what you are up to.
Pete
Your work is right up there with the best! I always enjoy seeing what you are up to.
Pete
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Re: Army Painter Dark Wash
I couldn't agree morepmskaar wrote:Cama
Your work is right up there with the best! I always enjoy seeing what you are up to.
Pete

That is one of the great things about sharing our photos with each other; it provides us all inspiration and ideas. Steve, I second Cama's suggestion to post your photos when you're ready.
Tanner
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OK, cool... next question... reactivation. How? Acrylics usually don't reactivate well with water. I've tried a number of different things including watercolour paint, Flory Models 'dirt' (works fine for larger plastic kits, a bit coarse for 1:285), Games Workshop, Vallejo... and so far only with the watercolour and Flory wash have been I been able to 'reactivate' and pull it back from open areas... I'm looking for a method to do German WW2 tri colour cams that don't kill the dark yellow...
There is no right or wrong, only decisions and consequences.
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My wash of choice is Vallejo (although we'll see how the Army Painter stuff works out for me). I mix the black and brown washes together with water: 1:1:1.

Piers, for "reactivation", my method is similar to Cama's but with different paints/chemicals:
1. Gloss varnish the miniature before the wash. This protects for step 3 and it helps the wash "pool" in the details.
2. Apply the wash to your preference; if it's a larger model I try to avoid the open panel areas... if it's small then I just apply everywhere. Let this dry for 15-20 minutes
3. I use a small flat brush; cheap camel hair I think. Dampen (not dripping) the brush in Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner and use it like a small pencil eraser to push back or "erase" the areas of the wash that you want to remove. It works very similar to Oil Wash with Turpentine but without the harmful chemicals.
Disclaimer - you can't "erase" for too long, eventually it will start to pull up the gloss varnish and then the paint underneath... so be mindful.
Tanner

Piers, for "reactivation", my method is similar to Cama's but with different paints/chemicals:
1. Gloss varnish the miniature before the wash. This protects for step 3 and it helps the wash "pool" in the details.
2. Apply the wash to your preference; if it's a larger model I try to avoid the open panel areas... if it's small then I just apply everywhere. Let this dry for 15-20 minutes
3. I use a small flat brush; cheap camel hair I think. Dampen (not dripping) the brush in Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner and use it like a small pencil eraser to push back or "erase" the areas of the wash that you want to remove. It works very similar to Oil Wash with Turpentine but without the harmful chemicals.
Disclaimer - you can't "erase" for too long, eventually it will start to pull up the gloss varnish and then the paint underneath... so be mindful.
Tanner
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