Soviet Green

Extra Crispy · Post by **Extra Crispy** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 10:40 am

Thought this might be of interest. Trying to find a Soviet Green I like. Here is a "test strip" - paint was applied quite thin over white primer.

Left to right: Coat d'Arms 530 Russian Green, 521 Army Green, Coat d'Arms 230, Vallejo 894, Vallejo 850, and craft paint "Seminole Green"

RedLeif · Post by **RedLeif** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 8:23 pm

are all your base coats 'straight outta the bottle' or did you mix them with a dash of white first? (I've seen a recommendation of about 1 to 2:10 white to green ratio "for scale")?

Just curios if you've tried that?

Extra Crispy · Post by **Extra Crispy** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 8:40 pm

All straight out of the bottle for me....

Gort · Post by **Gort** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:33 pm

Because Soviet Green (ie 4B0) is different from US Olive Drab how?

I use the same colour for both.

cheers[/img]

chrisswim · Post by **chrisswim** » Fri Jun 19, 2015 10:04 pm

Gort,
Great pic. Russian tanks (Sherman and T-34/85) and the background. Thank you for sharing.
Oh, the color of the tanks, not as important.

Rutgervanm · Post by **Rutgervanm** » Sat Jun 20, 2015 3:55 am

I use Plastic Soldier Company Soviet Green armour spray. Saves a lot of time!

Waddell · Post by **Waddell** » Sat Jun 20, 2015 9:13 am

Yeah, the Plastic Soldier Company Soviet Uniform Green solves a host of ills!

RedLeif · Post by **RedLeif** » Sat Jun 20, 2015 6:56 pm

Gort that is a very cool photo. I like to see M4 Shermans in Soviet service.
thanks for sharing.

dougeagle · Post by **dougeagle** » Sat Jun 20, 2015 11:23 pm

cama wrote:Vallejo alos makes an airbrushable primer that is terrific. I usually paint Soviet kit with the primer, wash with Army Painter Dark, and then bring it back up with 894 Russian Green, adding yellow and/or aged bone from the Model Air line.

But ... I have to say my favourite Russian Green is this one (by pmskaar, I believe)

Wow cama...I like the T-62A that you did...even the T-62 below yours is awesome as well.

But I am wondering though...do you put a dullcoat on it at all to protect them? That's my only concern as I've never really put a wash on them due too that possible problem.

pmskaar · Post by **pmskaar** » Sun Jun 21, 2015 1:53 am

Hi Cama

Thanks very much for your kind words but your T-62A does look excellent.

For my Soviet green, on my WWII stuff I have been using Humbrol #86 German Light Oive with a bit of white to lighten for scale. I used this color for the T-34's in the catalog except for the T-34/85 which is not mine.

For my modern Russian vehicles I have used #150 Forest Green with a bit of white and a touch of red brown to give it a slightly browner shade. In addition to the T-62, I did the BMP-1, the BMP-T, and the T-10 among others.

Pete

Extra Crispy · Post by **Extra Crispy** » Sun Jun 21, 2015 11:59 pm

Pmskaar:

Do you prime black or do you paint the whole tank green and use a wash? just wondering how you get that wonderful shadowing...

BattlerBritain · Post by **BattlerBritain** » Mon Jun 22, 2015 3:28 am

I use Humbrol 114, a colour that Humbrol has since stopped production of but of which I have a single tin left.

As a nearest match Humbrol 102 is a pretty good match.

pmskaar · Post by **pmskaar** » Tue Jun 23, 2015 12:56 am

Hi Mark

I use a white undercoat for my painting. I use thinned down Humbrol #34 white and spray it through my airbrush. My base coat is sprayed on over that.

After the base coat is applied, I do the detail work on the vehicle such as tires, tracks, tools and such and then when that is completely dry, I go and apply my blackwash or brownwash. For this part I use Grumbacher artists turpentine mixed with #33 black for the blackwash. For my brownwash I use #33 black mixed with #98 Chocolate Brown. It really depends on the overall color of my vehicles that determines which wash I use.

Once the wash is on, I will go back over it with some clear turpentine to get the wash in the recesses and off flat surfaces. I will play with this until I am happy with the results. One nice thing about turpentine as the base for the wash is that you can go back over it for days after if need be. When I am done I will bake the piece in the oven at about 200 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes which will set the wash.

Once I am done with the wash process, I next will go back and pick out any highlights with a small brush. Like Cama, I don't really dry brush that much. Fiinal details include the decals, "dusting", and some good old "Dullcoat".

I hope this helps.

Battler Britain:

I too used to use #114 Russian Green back in the day when Humbrol still made this color.
I still have some although in two of my tins the color looks more rifle green than the original Russian green. I think I have 1 tin where it is the original "better" color.

I have considered #102 Army Green and #117 U.S. Green which have both been recommended by other modelers but settled on #86 because I like it better. That is just my opinion of course.

Have a great day!

Pete

Mk 1 · Post by **Mk 1** » Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:29 pm

Gort wrote:Because Soviet Green (ie 4B0) is different from US Olive Drab how?

I realize I am somewhat late to the party on this issue, but ...

Let us bear in mind that the picture shows a Sherman in Soviet service! The reason that the Sherman and the T-34 appear to be about the same color is because ... they are about the same color.

But a Sherman painted in US Army Lusterless Olive Drab in WW2, or Olive Drab in the postwar reformulation (Korea) would be a different color vs. the T-34.

Soviet Green has much less brown in it that US Army Olive colors. It is a lighter green, and appears closer (in the green spectrum) to yellow than to brown.

Of course once they are all covered with oil, dust and rust ... well who knows? But they would have started as different colors.

-Mark
(aka: Mk 1)

Waddell · Post by **Waddell** » Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:45 am

I found a company via another discussion site called MiG out of Spain who does all manner of Russian Greens. Doing a search for "MiG paints" should provide the link if you want to check it out. My first order arrived after 3 weeks and postage was reasonable compared to some other methods available.

Sorry if this sounds like Spam but it seemed to fit the discussion thread.

Allen Waddell