I am amazed at the level of painters that we have on this forum which is why I am asking the following questions to help me out.
I was wondering, when it comes to highlighting, what technique do you use? Do you highlight with the base coat and then add a lighter paint to the base coat? or do you use a lighter paint and highlight that way?
(The reason that I ask is that I am going to redo my microarmor collection because of total disability, so I have plenty of free time)
Any ideas would help me to figure out.
Thanks!
Joe LePard
Highlighting Vehicles?
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cabin4clw
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Extra Crispy
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Well, I'm not in Cama's class, but I think mine look decent enough.
I suspect most use drybrushing, like me. I do it two ways, just depending on what look I want. I paint the base coat - Soviet green, for example. Then I'll dry brush either with that same color with some buff/cream/flesh added to lighten. Or I'll dry brush with a dusty color. Then I do the bits - treads and tools and so on.
I suspect most use drybrushing, like me. I do it two ways, just depending on what look I want. I paint the base coat - Soviet green, for example. Then I'll dry brush either with that same color with some buff/cream/flesh added to lighten. Or I'll dry brush with a dusty color. Then I do the bits - treads and tools and so on.
Mark Severin
Owner, Scale Creep Miniatures
Author DeepFriedHappyMice.com
Owner, Scale Creep Miniatures
Author DeepFriedHappyMice.com
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BattlerBritain
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I've started to use a wash when painting my vehicles.
Step 1 - paint the whole model in the base colour.
2 - paint the tracks
3 - use a black wash around all the detail. The model then tends to be very dark so
4 - go back over the base colour on the exposed, flat parts, but not into the edges
5 - paint in any details, eg picks+shovels, silver on the track on exposed parts, etc
6 - dry brush a light mud colour over the entire vehicle. I use Humbrol 118 for this.
Jobsa....
Step 1 - paint the whole model in the base colour.
2 - paint the tracks
3 - use a black wash around all the detail. The model then tends to be very dark so
4 - go back over the base colour on the exposed, flat parts, but not into the edges
5 - paint in any details, eg picks+shovels, silver on the track on exposed parts, etc
6 - dry brush a light mud colour over the entire vehicle. I use Humbrol 118 for this.
Jobsa....
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Hoth_902
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I have one helpful tip for washes. In discussions with some of my modeling friends, it was recommended that a clear gloss coat should be sprayed on the model to assist with the wash application. Warning, I am going to get all engineering on ya...
Matte finish paints have a ruff surface that is not visible to the naked eye. As a result, the wash will accumulate on the flat surface and give a darker or a dirty appearance to the paint. If you apply a clear gloss coat, it puts a smooth shiny surface on the model. When a wash is applied, it should assist the wash to wick into the detail and keep if off the flat surfaces. It’s important that the clear coat be a stronger paint than what is used in the wash. This prevents the thinner in the wash from removing the paint it’s applied over. It was recommended you use an Enamel clear coat with an Acrylic wash or a Lacquer clear coat with an Enamel wash. Once this is complete, you can apply a clear dull coat to get the Matt finish you desire. This prevents you from having to go back over the model to clean up the flat surfaces.
If you are applying decals, I would put the decal on the clear coat and not on the matte finish paint. It helps with the decal adhering to the surface and reduces silvering. With a decal I would put an additional clear gloss coat over the decal so that it seals the decal and then creates a fillet along the edge of the decal. Then apply the dull coat over that. The fillet helps hide the decal edge so it looks painted on. Once the dull coat is applied over the clear coat, it will matte finish everything the uniformly.
Now, I have not used this method yet, because none of my vehicles are ready for that stage. However, I have seen it done and it looks great. I am hoping soon, I will have an example of this method to show.
Matte finish paints have a ruff surface that is not visible to the naked eye. As a result, the wash will accumulate on the flat surface and give a darker or a dirty appearance to the paint. If you apply a clear gloss coat, it puts a smooth shiny surface on the model. When a wash is applied, it should assist the wash to wick into the detail and keep if off the flat surfaces. It’s important that the clear coat be a stronger paint than what is used in the wash. This prevents the thinner in the wash from removing the paint it’s applied over. It was recommended you use an Enamel clear coat with an Acrylic wash or a Lacquer clear coat with an Enamel wash. Once this is complete, you can apply a clear dull coat to get the Matt finish you desire. This prevents you from having to go back over the model to clean up the flat surfaces.
If you are applying decals, I would put the decal on the clear coat and not on the matte finish paint. It helps with the decal adhering to the surface and reduces silvering. With a decal I would put an additional clear gloss coat over the decal so that it seals the decal and then creates a fillet along the edge of the decal. Then apply the dull coat over that. The fillet helps hide the decal edge so it looks painted on. Once the dull coat is applied over the clear coat, it will matte finish everything the uniformly.
Now, I have not used this method yet, because none of my vehicles are ready for that stage. However, I have seen it done and it looks great. I am hoping soon, I will have an example of this method to show.
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Hoth_902
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Cabin4clw,
I have read about people using future polish but I have no experience using that product. If used properly it should work the same way, but I don't know the proper method. It was suggested to me to just use a gloss coat enamel, acrylic, or lacquer. This will do the same as future. I am going to try the lacquer gloss coat with enamel wash combo. As soon as I actually do this I will post some pictures. That way I am talking from experience and not advice from others.
Hopefully someone else with some experience will chime in. What I have read on this site, I don't think many do the clear coat method.
I have read about people using future polish but I have no experience using that product. If used properly it should work the same way, but I don't know the proper method. It was suggested to me to just use a gloss coat enamel, acrylic, or lacquer. This will do the same as future. I am going to try the lacquer gloss coat with enamel wash combo. As soon as I actually do this I will post some pictures. That way I am talking from experience and not advice from others.
Hopefully someone else with some experience will chime in. What I have read on this site, I don't think many do the clear coat method.
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nashorn88
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I'm a good painter not great but decent. I suggest getting a airbrush. With a airbrush you don't need to prime which saves a lot of detail of the model.
Just base color then I like to ink then drybrush to hightlight.
Let me see if I can dig up some pic
Also if you already have a coat of paint and wAnt to redo get some gel type paint remover like Jazco not sure of spelling but it the type that you need rubber glove to handle.
It may take a few times to get thick coating of paint off.
It's going to be a lot of work.
Just base color then I like to ink then drybrush to hightlight.
Let me see if I can dig up some pic
Also if you already have a coat of paint and wAnt to redo get some gel type paint remover like Jazco not sure of spelling but it the type that you need rubber glove to handle.
It may take a few times to get thick coating of paint off.
It's going to be a lot of work.
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BattlerBritain
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Some good painting there.
I can see the possible advantages of using a gloss finish but I'd be worried that anything put on top of the gloss wouldn't have enough to stick to and would eventually rub off.
Painting the flat bits again after applying the wash isn't too much of a burden and keeps everything 'matt'. Hence it's more liable to still be attached to the model in 10 years time.
I can see the possible advantages of using a gloss finish but I'd be worried that anything put on top of the gloss wouldn't have enough to stick to and would eventually rub off.
Painting the flat bits again after applying the wash isn't too much of a burden and keeps everything 'matt'. Hence it's more liable to still be attached to the model in 10 years time.
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Hoth_902
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BattlerBritian,
The wash would be in the detail work, which is below the surface that you would be touching. However, that is the reason an additional clear coat (both gloss and/or Dull coat) is applied on top of that. It helps seal the paint and put a protective layer between the surface of the model and your fingers. I believe this is what is done on larger models when they apply powders to the surface of the model. You can easily go to a hobby store and pick up reference material on weathering.
Sadly I have not used this method personally, but a buddy of mine, who builds incredible larger scale models uses this with great success. I guess this discussion is going to motivate me to actually try this out so that I have first hand knowledge and not just talking out my asp... God knows my buddy has been on my case to actually finish a vehicle using this method.
The wash would be in the detail work, which is below the surface that you would be touching. However, that is the reason an additional clear coat (both gloss and/or Dull coat) is applied on top of that. It helps seal the paint and put a protective layer between the surface of the model and your fingers. I believe this is what is done on larger models when they apply powders to the surface of the model. You can easily go to a hobby store and pick up reference material on weathering.
Sadly I have not used this method personally, but a buddy of mine, who builds incredible larger scale models uses this with great success. I guess this discussion is going to motivate me to actually try this out so that I have first hand knowledge and not just talking out my asp... God knows my buddy has been on my case to actually finish a vehicle using this method.