Bills stuff
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Bills stuff
I'll start a new thread now that I've figured out how to post photos, so I can start putting all my minis in one spot, now that I've kind of introduced myself.
A few micronauts that I've painted in the past. I throw some of my other past projects up in a little while, some of my WWII stuff and ACW, just to give you guys an idea of what I do, then I'll just post what I complete off the bench. Right now I'm working on CA Zara, some German 234's, and some more Union infantry.
Thanks for looking, Billy
A few micronauts that I've painted in the past. I throw some of my other past projects up in a little while, some of my WWII stuff and ACW, just to give you guys an idea of what I do, then I'll just post what I complete off the bench. Right now I'm working on CA Zara, some German 234's, and some more Union infantry.
Thanks for looking, Billy
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Re: Bills stuff
WOW Bill! How is that possible? Sometime when you have an opportunity would you mind a quick tutorial of your ship painting technique? Those look fantastic!
Redleg's Website: micropope.webstarts.com
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Re: Bills stuff
They look awesome! Love the bases too!
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Re: Bills stuff
Thanks guys. Redleg, my technique really isn't anything special. The most difficult part is getting a good base coat on the model first, then its just a matter of washes and dry brushing to pick out the detail. I do research on the the ship first to try and get the camo and paint as close a possible, sometimes that easier said than done, especially with smaller navies. The US navy there is a huge database on-line for camo reference at least especially when it comes to measure 32, you can find patterns for almost every ship. I take my time making sure I get light coats trying not to gunk up the paint, although it happens, do lots of touch ups to get lines as straight as possible. Then I'll apply a dark wash to the whole model, let it dry overnight, the apply a very light dry brush, building it until I get the effect I want. In the end I just go with good enough to make me happy, or else I'd never finish anything, lol
Billy
Billy
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Re: Bills stuff
I always add a label to the bottom of my ships with a little info, in this case, what the name means in english, for American ships, what the camo measure is, etc....
Thanks for looking, Billy
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Re: Bills stuff
Billy, can you line out the process for doing the deck decals? I am assuming yours are flight deck decals. Do you clear coat them and then glue down the jets? I am about to do a LHD USS Wasp. Want to make sure I do the decals right.
P.s. great work.
P.s. great work.
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Re: Bills stuff
Hoth,
Correct, Flight Deck Decals. I put the decal down after I apply the wash so I don't accidentally stain the decal, but before I dry brush. I cover the deck with a gloss clear, usually just brushed on Future floor polish, its acrylic. The gloss surface prevents any silvering and creates a smooth surface to adjust the decal. Once that's dry, once the decal is ready to go on, I put a few drops of water on the deck to aid in moving it around, once its where I want it, I lightly tap it with a damp paper towel to settle it and let it dry over night. The next day I brush on micro set to snug it down and conform it to the ramps and molded grooves in the deck, when that is dry, then I dry brush the model, and touch up the edges of the decal with a little dry brushed paint if I left a little white from trimming. Then I spray the whole model with Tamiya flat clear from a can, I've never had a problem with it damaging the decal. I glue down the aircraft with Elmers because it dries flat whereas CA dries gloss. Hope that helps and I didn't tell you anything you already know, I kind of rambled a little, lol
Billy
Correct, Flight Deck Decals. I put the decal down after I apply the wash so I don't accidentally stain the decal, but before I dry brush. I cover the deck with a gloss clear, usually just brushed on Future floor polish, its acrylic. The gloss surface prevents any silvering and creates a smooth surface to adjust the decal. Once that's dry, once the decal is ready to go on, I put a few drops of water on the deck to aid in moving it around, once its where I want it, I lightly tap it with a damp paper towel to settle it and let it dry over night. The next day I brush on micro set to snug it down and conform it to the ramps and molded grooves in the deck, when that is dry, then I dry brush the model, and touch up the edges of the decal with a little dry brushed paint if I left a little white from trimming. Then I spray the whole model with Tamiya flat clear from a can, I've never had a problem with it damaging the decal. I glue down the aircraft with Elmers because it dries flat whereas CA dries gloss. Hope that helps and I didn't tell you anything you already know, I kind of rambled a little, lol
Billy
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Re: Bills stuff
Bill,
This is exactly what I needed. I have not built models that required decals in years. Even then, I was never taught about clear coats before decals. So with that said,
1. Clear Coat and then let dry
2. Once Dry put micro set the next day to let it snug down.
3. Once apply clear coat to the top of decal
4. glue down planes.
How well does elmers glue work? and it dries clear?
This is exactly what I needed. I have not built models that required decals in years. Even then, I was never taught about clear coats before decals. So with that said,
1. Clear Coat and then let dry
2. Once Dry put micro set the next day to let it snug down.
3. Once apply clear coat to the top of decal
4. glue down planes.
How well does elmers glue work? and it dries clear?
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Re: Bills stuff
Yup, that’s my process in a nutshell.
1) gloss clear, let dry.
2) apply decal, let dry. Apply mirco SOL (sorry, I misspoke, not micro set) let dry.
3) flat clear.
The Elmers works just fine unless you handle the model roughly, don’t go crazy, just enough to hold down the plane and you won’t notice it. It does dry clear. I use diluted Elmers on my 1/350 ships for gluing ladders and railings in place because it dries clear and matte.
1) gloss clear, let dry.
2) apply decal, let dry. Apply mirco SOL (sorry, I misspoke, not micro set) let dry.
3) flat clear.
The Elmers works just fine unless you handle the model roughly, don’t go crazy, just enough to hold down the plane and you won’t notice it. It does dry clear. I use diluted Elmers on my 1/350 ships for gluing ladders and railings in place because it dries clear and matte.
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Re: Bills stuff
Here's some stuff I have on the bench that I'm working on
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Re: Bills stuff
Those are great looking minis you have there, Bill! Very nice work on all of it!
Pete
Pete
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Re: Bills stuff
Thanks Nash, thanks Pete. Pete, your stuff is amazing, there is absolutely no way I have the will to drill out gun barrels, and I do some pretty small stuff on my 1/48 aircraft, lol. Tomorrow I'll post a little bit more of my ACW and my completed WWII armor, I didn't feel like bringing it all downstairs. Probably 75% of my micronauts live in a museum on loan, so I don't have a lot here to post. Then I'll just stick to new stuff.
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Re: Bills stuff
Great stuff! I don’t do micronauts but boy do I appreciate them when they look well painted like yours ... can’t wait to see your other stuff.
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Re: Bills stuff
Wow, great looking minis indeed! Well done!
Im torn on the solution. I have since moved over to Tamiya Mark Fit to set the decals.
Im torn on the solution. I have since moved over to Tamiya Mark Fit to set the decals.