Over the years I think I have tried about every glue out there. For assembly I now use Aleene's Jewelry & Metal glue. Here are some of the reasons why I have ended up here:
Relatively inexpensive, 3 pack ($2.50-$3) 1 oz. tubes - got so sick of wasting larger bottles of superglue, Zap etc. because 70% of it dried out over time.
It is a bit thicker than most - more on the gel side so it's easier to place & does not run all over the place
It grips and dries relatively fast but it gives you enough time for correct placement / alteration and you don't need to hold the part in place for 5 minutes...
Other favorites are UV glue for placing 1-2400 planes on carrier decks & E6000 for larger parts / projects / models.
I like Zap. I’ve been using it for years. I literally buy maybe a tube every 9 months or so. I’ve never had a issue with it drying out, but I do have issues with the top of the tube sealing itself shut no matter what I’ve tried, which is probably why it’s never dried out; vicious circle. It’s great for gluing minis to bases. I like regular old Elmers for attaching aircraft to flight decks, it doesn’t tear decals, it dries clear and Matt, it gives you ample time to make minor adjustments to make things just so.
I like Zap. I’ve been using it for years. I literally buy maybe a tube every 9 months or so. I’ve never had a issue with it drying out, but I do have issues with the top of the tube sealing itself shut no matter what I’ve tried
Last bottle I had, I used plyers to try and twist the cap off after using zap release agent. Finally got the cap off but it twisted the nozzle off with it...
I like regular old Elmers for attaching aircraft to flight decks, it doesn’t tear decals, it dries clear and Matt, it gives you ample time to make minor adjustments to make things just so.
I caught this tip in an earlier post from you. I never thought of using clear Elmer's PVA. I use it to make hit marks but it never dawned on me to use for deck aircraft. I am so using it on my next CV! That tip was the reason I posted this thread question. Figured if I never though of that, what other glue alternatives might be out there?
Hoth,
Elmers is strong enough for small work like gluing aircraft decks and thinks like that. I use Elmers Glue All multi-purpose. I wouldn’t use it for major construction like gluing superstructures to hulls, or tank turrets on, or aircraft wings to the fuselage. It may work fine come to think of it, I also use a drop of it to glue the minis to the top of finish nails for painting, so I can pop them off with my fingernail when I’m done, and sometimes those little buggers just don’t want to come off!
FDD,
So with the Zap, after I finish using it, before I put the cap back on, I hold it upright and give the bottle a couple of squeezes to blow some air through the nozzle to draw and remaining glue from the nozzle back into the bottle, then I dab the top with a paper towel wick up any left over. Just make sure you have the paper towel folded over, or else any remaining glue will soak through and glow the paper towel and the bottle to your finger. (Ask me how I know that).
I’ve used gator grip hobby glue. Used it when applying photo etch to ship models. Here is what the description says:
Gator's Hobby Glue is a non-toxic, non-yellowing, transparent acrylic polymer
adhesive. It instantly grabs hold of the photo etch and gives a strong, flexible bond
when dry. Once cured, it holds up well to both acrylic and enamel paints.
Works really good
I use Krazy Glue. It dries really quickly and it a pain when it sticks to your finger, but it dries really quickly and securely. I find keeping it in the fridge makes it last longer.
The Krazy Glue Maximum Bond with a long neck is the best since if it seals up, I can use a paper clip to open it up.
Currently I am using CA glue called INSTA-FLEX+ (Clear Gap filling Medium 5-15 sec.). Hobby Town puts there logo on the top of the label. I have seen the same brand used at different hobby stores with there name on the top. It works really well for me and I don't think I have had a big issue with it. I am lazy with how I assemble things and have used it to glue something to a painted surface without it falling off later.
Like A previous post, I have heard it last longer if kept in the Fridge. I have issue with the top sealing over ever so often, to where I cannot unclog it. But it happens over time.
FDD,
Just make sure you have the paper towel folded over, or else any remaining glue will soak through and glow the paper towel and the bottle to your finger. (Ask me how I know that).
The clear Gorilla glue does an excellent job for this sort of thing.
I tried the Gorilla too. I really liked it but ran into the issue of the remaining 1/2 of the bottle thickening to the point that I have to apply it like putty. I wonder if they make it in small tubes? That would work.
I’ve used gator grip hobby glue. Used it when applying photo etch to ship models. Here is what the description says:
Gator's Hobby Glue is a non-toxic, non-yellowing, transparent acrylic polymer
adhesive. It instantly grabs hold of the photo etch and gives a strong, flexible bond
when dry. Once cured, it holds up well to both acrylic and enamel paints.
Works really good
Thanks rdenman62. Going to give this a try and INSTA-FLEX+ Hoth mentioned. There are times I miss having a gap filler alternative.
I tried the Gorilla too. I really liked it but ran into the issue of the remaining 1/2 of the bottle thickening to the point that I have to apply it like putty. I wonder if they make it in small tubes? That would work.
I have always bought it in a small tube at Home Depot for that very reason.
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who don't.
