GHQ Models Forums

I've been looking for a good way to make tree canopies to replace the forests of single trees in my 6mm games. But my Holy Grail are canopies that can flex up and down hills, I'm not sure clump foliage will be flexible enough but here is my first attempt. I am using plastic screen from an old door, covered in clump foliage bits. I will use inverted roofing nails as the trunks with the "points" safely embedded in the foliage.

Right now I'm letting this dry. I'll peel off the wax paper and see how much flex this actually gives, if any. Further updates as events warrant.

WS&S did an article about this exact topic, two issues ago I believe.

I'll have a look. It's a common enough technique if you want a rigid canopy - just glue foliage to cardboard or foamboard or whatever. My "grail" is one that is flexible and will "flow" down a hillside.

This has been one of my bugaboos as well. I like the canopy concept since seeing it a few years back at a con. Then variations showed up on line. Looked excellent except for the issue you describe, following contour lines. So the versions I have seen have common nails attacked to the bottom of the foam base of the canopy. Then the canopy sits on the nails on the game surface. It needs the flatness of the foam base to keep the nails perpendicular to the game surface. How do you overcome this with the flexible canopy base?

Here is my thinking.....

My "trunks" are roofing nails about 1.5" / 40mm long. They have a big, flat head. So I poke them in to the bottom and glue them in place and the canopy "stands" on the heads of the nails. Wherever it flows just tweak the nail head to flat. Initial indications are good, just waiting for the concept to fully dry (I used a lot of glue).

So rather than the canopy base resting on the heads the bodies (I assume) are slightly larger than the holes in the mesh. The bodies extend into the mesh and the whole canopy rests on the heads as opposed to opposite, base on heads and points rest on game surface. Sounds about right? The mesh is flexible to conform to the terrain with small adjustment to make the heads lie as flat as possible.

The other aspect I forgot is the nails in the examples I have seen just rim the edge, maybe 1" apart. Your arrangement requires nails throughout the area of the mesh to support it. What spacing do you think would work?

The nails are glued point up to the mesh/canopy. I'm thinking 4 around the perimeter and one central "trunk" will be enough, though this canopy is only about 3" wide and 7" long.

I'm calling this a win. A tree canopy that can "flow" up or down hills. For a finished piece I'd flock the nail heads. I think I'll use string to mark the boundary of the forest on the ground and add some foliage or clutter to dress it up.

Instead of a rigid base like cardboard or foamcore, I used aluminum window screen. I covered it in clump foliage, attached with wood glue. Roofing nails are glued in point up to act as trunks. You could also use centrally placed wood cubes, as the screen is rigid enough.

A couple tips. Don't glue foliage too densely, it needs room to flex. Make sure your glue is absolutely dry. Overnight us best.
I expect clumps will pop off now and then, so travel with extra wood glue.

I will trim the screen off the edges and use shorter roofing nails next time.

You could try flocking the screen edges.

Just a prototype. I'll trim off unflocked screen, touch up the trunks (these are too long anyway and will be replaced). I'll post pics of a final build.

Now I see what you are thinking.
Interesting concept.