Has anyone tried to swap heads on the newer GHQ infantry? It seems like just gluing the new heads on would't be strong enough & the figures would be too small for pinning.
Also, is it appropriate to post lists of items here that you're interested in buying from or trading with other members?
Thanks
Swapping Heads & Swapping Figures
Moderators: dnichols, GHQ, Mk 1
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Pitfall
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Mk 1
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Hands? Yeah, I can probably manage the steady hands. What about eyes?!?VonTed wrote:
You guys must have steady hands.
Sheesh, I can't even see if I have managed to get flesh-tone paint on the faces when I hit them with the brush. How can I expect to see if I put the head on forwards, backwards, or upside-down?
-Mark 1
Difficile est, saturam non scribere.
"It is hard NOT to write satire." - Decimus Iunius Juvenalis, 1st Century AD
Difficile est, saturam non scribere.
"It is hard NOT to write satire." - Decimus Iunius Juvenalis, 1st Century AD
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1ComOpsCtr
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head swap
Gentlemen,
There are two ways that work well. One if for the figure that will not be handled a lot, the other for figures that will be handled, moved, packaged for trips to games, etc...
For the easy swap you can use a number 11 blade to remove both heads as close to the body as possible. You need to use a magnifier and do a good clean job on the cut. A small drop of super glue on the end of a tooth pick applied to the body and a very careful placement of the head will do a good job as long as the figure isn't going to be touched during gaming or shipping.
For the best job you need a very fine drill, a pin vice, and some very fine wire. The wire can be piano wire or a soft wire, doesn't really matter, but it must be the same size as the drill bit.
Using a #11 blade again to sever the head very carefully is even more important with this system because you need to drill both sides, the body and the head, so you need as flat a surface as possible. I use an untra-fine fine center punch for the two parts before I use the drill to keep from damaging the head (the more delicate of the two parts). You need to drill about a 1/16" into the body and a 1/32" into the head if there is room, otherwise make the hole as deep as possible without damaging the casting.
After drilling the holes place the wire into the body with a small dab of super glue on the insertion end. Clean the excess before cutting the wire to fit the hole drilled in the head. Always test fit everything before you glue. After you make the test fitting you can glue the head to the body in the attitude you want. Sometimes this allows you to reposition the head to make the figure look at an object on the stand, or make two figures look like they are talking to each other, etc... your call.
A high power magnifier is a must, as are sharp #11's or scalples, if that is what you use for your micro work.
Will
ComOpsCtr
There are two ways that work well. One if for the figure that will not be handled a lot, the other for figures that will be handled, moved, packaged for trips to games, etc...
For the easy swap you can use a number 11 blade to remove both heads as close to the body as possible. You need to use a magnifier and do a good clean job on the cut. A small drop of super glue on the end of a tooth pick applied to the body and a very careful placement of the head will do a good job as long as the figure isn't going to be touched during gaming or shipping.
For the best job you need a very fine drill, a pin vice, and some very fine wire. The wire can be piano wire or a soft wire, doesn't really matter, but it must be the same size as the drill bit.
Using a #11 blade again to sever the head very carefully is even more important with this system because you need to drill both sides, the body and the head, so you need as flat a surface as possible. I use an untra-fine fine center punch for the two parts before I use the drill to keep from damaging the head (the more delicate of the two parts). You need to drill about a 1/16" into the body and a 1/32" into the head if there is room, otherwise make the hole as deep as possible without damaging the casting.
After drilling the holes place the wire into the body with a small dab of super glue on the insertion end. Clean the excess before cutting the wire to fit the hole drilled in the head. Always test fit everything before you glue. After you make the test fitting you can glue the head to the body in the attitude you want. Sometimes this allows you to reposition the head to make the figure look at an object on the stand, or make two figures look like they are talking to each other, etc... your call.
A high power magnifier is a must, as are sharp #11's or scalples, if that is what you use for your micro work.
Will
ComOpsCtr
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster." - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 1844-1900