Micronaut Only Thread
Moderators: dnichols, GHQ, Mk 1
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Wow - they're amazing and you make me want to hang my head in shame. I almost bought one to have as something to aim for, quality-wise! Then I thought it would be more likely to cause paralysis.
One thing I don't understand, though ...
You make them ... and then you just sell them, as in 'straight away'? How can you bare to say goodbye? If I'd pulled those markings off on a printer, I'd want to be buried with them. (I once managed to get my printer to ... print. This is the limit of my skill).
Have you ever worked out from an average sale price what you earn an hour after material costs?!?!
Anyway, nice one. Just a bit intimidating for a beginner!
One thing I don't understand, though ...
You make them ... and then you just sell them, as in 'straight away'? How can you bare to say goodbye? If I'd pulled those markings off on a printer, I'd want to be buried with them. (I once managed to get my printer to ... print. This is the limit of my skill).
Have you ever worked out from an average sale price what you earn an hour after material costs?!?!
Anyway, nice one. Just a bit intimidating for a beginner!
On balance, Jellicoe was probably right.
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Yeah I have... selling miniatures is a complicated matter for anyone who does itUnfathomable wrote:Have you ever worked out from an average sale price what you earn an hour after material costs?!?!

Wife: went to the eye doctor, all 3 kids need glasses
Me: ugh
Wife: also, orthodontist says all 3 kids need braces
Me: ugh
Wife: I bought a new dress today
Me: Well, I guess I could offset some of that cost by selling some of my new miniatures I just finished painting.
In almost every instance I start by painting for myself, and end up selling for some other reason. This is exactly why my crappy painted Axis and Allies miniatures get more use than any of the armies I've painted. My priorities are not always straight...
Tanner
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Yeah. I know the budget feeling. Except when She Who Must Be Obeyed goes on a spending spree and she feels guilty ... and then I get to go on one as well, with her encouragement, to make us as bad as each other and so dislodge me from my position on the moral high ground before I get to dig in.
And look how realistic that coin and the pin is! With skills like that you could get into counterfeiting. They look almost real.
Seriously, though. How long have you been working on your skills to get such wonderful results? If I posted pictures would you critique mine and offer advice?
And look how realistic that coin and the pin is! With skills like that you could get into counterfeiting. They look almost real.
Seriously, though. How long have you been working on your skills to get such wonderful results? If I posted pictures would you critique mine and offer advice?
On balance, Jellicoe was probably right.
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I've been painting miniatures for about 6 or 7 years... the first stuff I painted was pretty bad. Your painting results are a product of how much time and experimentation you are willing to put into it. I have always been big on trying new techniques and experimenting with new painting products and tools.Unfathomable wrote:Seriously, though. How long have you been working on your skills to get such wonderful results? If I posted pictures would you critique mine and offer advice?
Some people would rather spend more time gaming than painting, and that's ok... I think it really boils down to what you enjoy most.
There are a lot of people on this forum that are great at providing feedback, and I'm certainly happy to do so as well. Everyone on the GHQ Forum is very respectful and understanding... which you don't always get on other forums. Post some pictures and see what people think.
Take care,
Tanner
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Okay, I am working in the Shipyard for a while to get the fleet built up. Anyone build an Atlanta? One down and three to go but I noticed on the first one that I needed to break out the pin vice and open up the mounting holes for the 5" turrets. Anyone else have to?
Love the model otherwise!
Love the model otherwise!
"It is a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step into the road and, if you do not keep your feet, there is no telling where you might be swept off to."
Bilbo Baggins to Frodo Baggins.
Bilbo Baggins to Frodo Baggins.
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Thanks! I didn't think I could be getting that wrong. And Atlanta# 2 is starting out the same way. Not a complaint actually. I do love the model. Something cool about the Atlanta's amongst the rest of the screen. The completed model just looks great!WWIICentral wrote:Yup! Just assembled an Atlanta last week and had to drill out the holes on all but one.
Tanner
"It is a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step into the road and, if you do not keep your feet, there is no telling where you might be swept off to."
Bilbo Baggins to Frodo Baggins.
Bilbo Baggins to Frodo Baggins.
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Hello one and all.
Quick question: Does anyone have advice (for a beginner) on the neatest way to secure aircraft on carrier decks?
I'm doing the hybrid HMS Furious and if I use enough glue to hold the pups on properly it makes a mess and the glue can be easily seen. If I use less adhesive - and do a neat job - then the Pups fall off if a Sparrow farts.
So it's either keep the planes on and have lumpy bubbles of glue or have it look nice - and never move the the model. I'm sure there's something I'm missing ...?
Cheers.
PS: The Furious has a dip abaft the forward flight deck, right before the bridge superstructure. Is this a lift to a hangar? Or an error on my part? Again, thanks.
Quick question: Does anyone have advice (for a beginner) on the neatest way to secure aircraft on carrier decks?
I'm doing the hybrid HMS Furious and if I use enough glue to hold the pups on properly it makes a mess and the glue can be easily seen. If I use less adhesive - and do a neat job - then the Pups fall off if a Sparrow farts.
So it's either keep the planes on and have lumpy bubbles of glue or have it look nice - and never move the the model. I'm sure there's something I'm missing ...?
Cheers.
PS: The Furious has a dip abaft the forward flight deck, right before the bridge superstructure. Is this a lift to a hangar? Or an error on my part? Again, thanks.
On balance, Jellicoe was probably right.
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Sorry, I don't have a good method to solidly attach Micronaut aircraft to flight decks without producing an unsightly bulge. My best effort is the smallest drop of cyano-acrylate I can produce, but this doesn't produce a really good joint.
The depression just before the bridge of HMS Furious is a lift to a small hanger below the flying-off deck. It's not quite correct as the actual lift surface should not be flush with the front of the bridge. On mine, I filled it in level with the rest of the flying-off deck.
Don S.
The depression just before the bridge of HMS Furious is a lift to a small hanger below the flying-off deck. It's not quite correct as the actual lift surface should not be flush with the front of the bridge. On mine, I filled it in level with the rest of the flying-off deck.
Don S.
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For the recent carriers that I painted, I used Zap a Gap CA (medium consistency). Rather than put the drops on the flight deck, dip the planes gently in the glue, holding them with tweezers. Set the plane down on the deck and then you can use a piece of paper towel or tissue to draw off the excess before it dries. If I looked close enough I could see the glue, but it wasn't very noticeable. I also glued before I painted, so there was a coat of primer, paint, and varnish to help seal it further.
Tanner
Tanner
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Thanks for the advice.
I haven't tried Zap as a brand. I'm limited by choice because of where I live but I think I've seen Zap about. I've been using a Revell glue for its applicator - the longest and most narrow I could find. And even this is not delicate enough. Not in my hands, anyway.
Will look at that Zap. It's the one that comes with something to make is set quickly? Hope it has some kind of nozzle or something the help the process along.
In fact, availability of products is a bit of a hassle. I often read of items that seem freely available in other countries, especially America, which can't be found where I live. Invariably this is the recommended product as well!
So far as I can tell I have access to Tamiya and Humbrol in enamel paints , Tamiya and (sp?) aqueous in acrylic and Humbrol or Revel for glue. Even the hobby shop guy says I shouldn't be using what he stocks! All the other things people mention, from good styrene stocks to Future Floor Wax or primer brands are unavailable - or undiscovered. Right pain in the backside.
Anyway, thanks again for the replies.
Cheers!
I haven't tried Zap as a brand. I'm limited by choice because of where I live but I think I've seen Zap about. I've been using a Revell glue for its applicator - the longest and most narrow I could find. And even this is not delicate enough. Not in my hands, anyway.
Will look at that Zap. It's the one that comes with something to make is set quickly? Hope it has some kind of nozzle or something the help the process along.
In fact, availability of products is a bit of a hassle. I often read of items that seem freely available in other countries, especially America, which can't be found where I live. Invariably this is the recommended product as well!
So far as I can tell I have access to Tamiya and Humbrol in enamel paints , Tamiya and (sp?) aqueous in acrylic and Humbrol or Revel for glue. Even the hobby shop guy says I shouldn't be using what he stocks! All the other things people mention, from good styrene stocks to Future Floor Wax or primer brands are unavailable - or undiscovered. Right pain in the backside.
Anyway, thanks again for the replies.
Cheers!
On balance, Jellicoe was probably right.
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Revell and applicator? Are you talking ofContacta pro? It is for plastic not metal. For metal you should use Contacta liquid special (without applicator).
If you do not find specific modellimng type of glue, may I suggest brands like Loctite Attack or UHU all purpose . They do not fill gap but are very strong. If the applicator is too big try using a pin to apply a small quantoty of gliue. Put a drop of glue on a gll surface and pick up the needed quantity with a pin.
As they are a sort of universal adhesive they may be found in many shops. In Italy you may find these brands even in a normal supermarket.
Be careful with Loctite because dry very fast.
If you do not find specific modellimng type of glue, may I suggest brands like Loctite Attack or UHU all purpose . They do not fill gap but are very strong. If the applicator is too big try using a pin to apply a small quantoty of gliue. Put a drop of glue on a gll surface and pick up the needed quantity with a pin.
As they are a sort of universal adhesive they may be found in many shops. In Italy you may find these brands even in a normal supermarket.
Be careful with Loctite because dry very fast.
Ubicumque et semper
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Thanks again for the replies.
I found some medium Zap last night and even bought the kicker for it. Got home and realised that I didn't know if the kicker would damage parts that are already painted. (The flight deck itself, for example, which is all set and ready for the Pups). Has anyone experience with this? Is it best to leave the kicker out when some parts are already painted? I got too nervous to actually use it!
And Tammy, not sure of any names like Contacta Pro or Loctite. This is just the normal modeling glue from Revel, close to all I can find, and so far it's worked just fine, though it's messy. Or that could just be me who is messy! I only know UHU in stick form, the roll-out one that kids use. Perhaps I should search for more.
Thanks yet again for the advice.
PS: Am I, um, asking too many questions? I've read all the pages of the forum, so I hope I'm not doubling on anything. But there's a gap online for information - it lies between "advice for a child" and "moderate experience". Advanced stuff, that I can also find. Total beginner instructions (as in "ask a parent's permission before using scissors"), that I can also find. But it's that blind spot between ... right where I am ...
I found some medium Zap last night and even bought the kicker for it. Got home and realised that I didn't know if the kicker would damage parts that are already painted. (The flight deck itself, for example, which is all set and ready for the Pups). Has anyone experience with this? Is it best to leave the kicker out when some parts are already painted? I got too nervous to actually use it!
And Tammy, not sure of any names like Contacta Pro or Loctite. This is just the normal modeling glue from Revel, close to all I can find, and so far it's worked just fine, though it's messy. Or that could just be me who is messy! I only know UHU in stick form, the roll-out one that kids use. Perhaps I should search for more.
Thanks yet again for the advice.
PS: Am I, um, asking too many questions? I've read all the pages of the forum, so I hope I'm not doubling on anything. But there's a gap online for information - it lies between "advice for a child" and "moderate experience". Advanced stuff, that I can also find. Total beginner instructions (as in "ask a parent's permission before using scissors"), that I can also find. But it's that blind spot between ... right where I am ...
On balance, Jellicoe was probably right.
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Keep asking those questions, the folks on this forum have always been eager to share information...and we may learn something new too.Unfathomable wrote:Thanks again for the replies.
I found some medium Zap last night and even bought the kicker for it. Got home and realised that I didn't know if the kicker would damage parts that are already painted. (The flight deck itself, for example, which is all set and ready for the Pups). Has anyone experience with this? Is it best to leave the kicker out when some parts are already painted? I got too nervous to actually use it!
And Tammy, not sure of any names like Contacta Pro or Loctite. This is just the normal modeling glue from Revel, close to all I can find, and so far it's worked just fine, though it's messy. Or that could just be me who is messy! I only know UHU in stick form, the roll-out one that kids use. Perhaps I should search for more.
Thanks yet again for the advice.
PS: Am I, um, asking too many questions? I've read all the pages of the forum, so I hope I'm not doubling on anything. But there's a gap online for information - it lies between "advice for a child" and "moderate experience". Advanced stuff, that I can also find. Total beginner instructions (as in "ask a parent's permission before using scissors"), that I can also find. But it's that blind spot between ... right where I am ...
I have on occasion put a drop of "crazy glue" inside of an empty GHQ blister pack, spread it thinly with a toothpick and gently touched the small piece to be glued to the area and then placed it with tweezers in it's permanent location. It may help to use a file or sandpaper to flatten a small area on the underside of the aircraft where the tail wheel would be for your anchor point for the glue. A dullcote lacquer on the flight deck before attaching the planes may minimize the damage to your flight deck paint job.
I hope this helps.
Always respect the law of gross tonnage (aka "bigger boat wins")