Micronaut Only Thread

Donald M. Scheef · Post by **Donald M. Scheef** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:13 am

The most recent I have heard is that there was an error in converting from local time to modern standard time (Grenwich base) and that the actual end of the world won't happen until midnight December 22.
Next prediction: December 23. ...

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:40 am

Happy New Year!

Here is an odd one. I wanted to do a pin wash, so I masked the ship and sprayed the relevant portion with canned gloss topcoat. (Following the old rule than all washes are to be performed on gloss). I then performed the pin wash, reversed masked, and then sprayed the matte coat, again from a can.

The matte coat didn't overpower the gloss one. Three repeated matte coats produced the same result - once coated gloss, nothing could make it matte again. On a piece of spare pewter I tested Tamyia dull and gloss coats and Testors dull and gloss in every combination, all with the same results.

According to the well-known model maker David Griffith this is to be expected. In his book "Ship Models: Basic and Advanced Techniques for Small Scales" he states that the only matte finish with a chance of overpowering a gloss is a special solution thinned and run through an airbrush, specifically Cryla Soluble Matte Varnish. (Which of course I can't find anywhere!)

This seems like a lot of hassle for things such as 1:2400 ships' boats! It's also in direct contradiction to advice from forums and even from the hobby shop where I get my branded cans. That said, Mr. Griffith knows his stuff better than any of those other sources.

Has anyone else encountered and perhaps solved this problem? Or perhaps found a work around nor involving glass varnish? I use enamel paints if that changes anything.

Cheers.

DAVIDNOLA62 · Post by **DAVIDNOLA62** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:20 am

I've found Testors spray matte varnish covers Vallejo brush-on gloss varnish perfectly on the first coat. I've never had any problem with this system failing, so it's what I use every time.

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:10 am

Thanks, David. But I can't get the brand Vallejo where I live, though I'll look out for it. For the time being I have to make do with either Testors or Tamyia. (I've tried others from the hardware shop and didn't like the grainy, more visibly porous results.)

Or, of course, I could run something from the art shop (in diluted form) through an airbrush and go through the hassle of testing until I get the right one. But my airbrush and me aren't on speaking terms. We haven't got on for years. Did you happen on this combination, the one that works for you, the first time?

I wonder if humidity effects the finish. I know it has a negative impact on my paints. Then again, I've tested under a variety of conditions. Meanwhile I'll look out for - and if possible snap up - your recommendation.

Cheers.

DAVIDNOLA62 · Post by **DAVIDNOLA62** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:25 am

If you have access to eBay, you have access to Vallejo paints

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 9:46 am

Too true! (Must be that Phd getting in the way again ...)

Sometimes there's some weird local laws about importing liquids, especially chemicals, but I admit I haven't checked that exact product out. So many people swear by Vallejo paints I was thinking of ordering them OS as well, so long as I'm allowed.

piersyf · Post by **piersyf** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:31 am

I spray with Tamiya semi gloss clear for decals, overspray the decals with more semi gloss, then finish with an overspray of Tamiya flat clear or Testors Dullcote. Works fine for me. The three Tempests in the background are still at the semi gloss stage.

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:44 pm

"Semi" gloss. Now that's news to me. Didn't even know there was a semi! Thanks a lot, I'll check that out. Is it something like a satin finish? Funny, but that one went right through to the keeper. (I swear there must be a million other super-obvious things I'm doing wrong that are staring me right in the face).

And sweet cammo on the Tempests, by the way. I especially admire people who can handle the planes. They utterly defeat me for the time being. Thanks again.

piersyf · Post by **piersyf** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 4:23 pm

Yeah, semi gloss is also satin finish, depending on the manufacturer. "Through to the keeper" huh? Your tag says 'beyond the horizon', but I'd say you are at least familiar with cricket. Beyond the horizon from the US? In which direction?

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:10 am

Oh, nowhere exotic from your point of view piersyf ... all that silly stuff was written in the assumption that most people here would be in the U.S. I'm in Sydney, so it's a bit of a let down I'm afraid. Was hoping I'd encounter someone physically closer, and they may be lurking somewhere, but for the moment Melbourne is it geographically speaking!

Forgot all about "through to the keeper". I try not to throw stuff like that in, but sometimes I slip up. I only realise how much slang and Strain I use, not to mention what might be considered swearing elsewhere, until I'm in a situation where I have to watch my tongue. Or fingers.

Though technically I'm beyond the horizon from Melb. Kind of.

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:06 am

Community Service Announcement.

1) I have proven in the name of science that small secondary guns that are webbed to the deck cannot be 'cut' free so that they are only a barrel with no support. Of course I knew that already, I was just, um, testing. Obviously.

2) In 47 C temperatures (116.6 F) and massive humidity, as it was yesterday, as measured within my tin-roofed house, absolutely nothing works as it should - not paint, glue, varnish, undercoat, nothing at all. Especially not brains.

3) Immediately after complaining on this forum about not having access to vajello (sp?) products I found a hobby shop hidden in the back-blocks behind nowhere that carried seemingly everything they produce - a range called 'Game', another for tanks or something and yet another general line, plus pigments, airbrush paints, all sorts. They also carried Testors paints, though some we so old they'd dried in the bottle. Everything was covered in dust. So there. I should complain again and see if the universe provides.

Sudwind · Post by **Sudwind** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:59 am

Hey guys,

Here are some more of my painting efforts. I actually have a lot more to post, but these are two I worked on last night. I used the Vallejo Water Effects on the sub and I plan on using that for all my ships from now on! Both models are GHQ, of course!

ftm2kleszics · Post by **ftm2kleszics** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:42 pm

Outstanding paint job Sudwind. The Los Angeles sub is great. How did you do the fine details? I have this model and can not see the hatches. The paint job on the Knox class frigate is also superb. It reminds me of the Knox class that were in Pearl Harbor with my ship (U.S.S. Harold E. Holt, Rathburne,Whipple,Ouellet).

Sudwind · Post by **Sudwind** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:18 am

Thanks for the comments.

I got the fine details to show on the submarine by dry brushing. I took the black paint I used for the base color and added some white to get a dark grey and dry brushed that on carefully. Get the brush ready by adding the paint and brushing on some paper till the paint doesn't come off easily anymore. Then lightly brush the model to get the highlight color to adhere to the raised surfaces. I then took the black paint again and added more white to get a lighter dark grey than the first color and dry brushed the model again. This technique works extremely well on GHQ models because of all the fine details.

Unfathomable · Post by **Unfathomable** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:15 am

Lovely models, Sudwind. I'm impressed that you can do one or more in a night. Mine don't look as good and they can take me a month!

My slender resources have let me down - though chances are I'm missing something obvious - so I was wondering if I could beg the answer to a general question:

The WWI USS Tennessee, which had its name changed to Memphis, has wooden deck at either end. There is then a raised deck, very broad and flat, that runs most of the ship's middle and houses the boats. Otherwise featureless, the centreline sports the funnels. Does anyone know what colour this wide area should be? References for similar ACRs which I have been able to source would imply - though I never had a direct look - that it was the same colour as the deck, which would mean that both deck and raised surface would have been painted over the same tan colour. The problem here is that the pictures are a) not the same vessel and b) the vessel represented in an earlier, peacetime paint scheme.

Aesthetically it would seem pleasing to carry the deck paint up and around, though were this an RN vessel I'd be looking into lino anti-slip covering. Anyone know the correct way to jump here? What's the right surface colour for this part?

Also, the same model has large windows visible at bridge-level, the first time I've had to deal with this (at this scale!). Anyone go a good technique for representing these windows? I could of course shadow them, or attempt a light bluish shade. Can't imagine those are anything but second best, however. Any good tips here?

Cheers.

Micronaut Only Thread

Los Angeles class submarine and Knox class frigate