What type of adhesive does everyone use?

[fullmetaljacket]

Was sitting here wondering what type of adhesive do most of you use on ghq micro and micronauts?

I use Jet but dont like how clumpy it can be. I love tamiya thin cement works the best with plastic kts, but not so well with GHQ products. Just wondering what every out there uses thanks.

fullmetaljacket

[Donald M. Scheef]

I have used both two-part epoxy and cyano-acrylate from different manufacturers with what I consider reasonable results.

Cyano-acrylate is faster - quicker adhesion but you have to be careful not to glue yourself and there's no time for adjustment.

Two part epoxy allows repositioning and tweaking and is less hazardous but requires support until it sets. Also, if you are on a large project, the mixed epoxy may harden while you are part-way through. Just limit the amount you mix at any one time.

I don't see how Tamiya thin cement would work at all on GHQ products. As I recall, it acts primarily as a solvent to styrene plastics so that the pieces 'weld' together. It won't hold together metal pieces.

Don S.

[Gompel]

Good question. I use quite some different glues, but I found it a big challenge to glue tiny magnets to the cupolas of tanks. All my glues didn't give good enough results. I bought some special two-part metal epoxy, sandpapered the magnets and made all parts grease free. But I was still disapointed: when the magnets bumped together it broke the magnet from the glue. Then somebody said he glued it with Super Glue Gel. I never liked super glues, since they are too quick for me and the result isn't very strong. But the gel did do the trick: my magnets still stick and you have some time to adjust. It even fills small gaps, since it's not very runny. Nowadays I use this glue a lot.

[Mk 1]

I use cyano-acrylate gel. It is easier to use with items that may not fit together perfectly, and it dries a bit slower than the liquids.

I've tried Jet brand gel. I was not too satisfied with it. It seems to dry slower than other gels, too slowly for my convenience. Also the container is too big. Gee I'd like to have a good sized container, so that I always have some ready to go when I want to get to some modelling, but -- super glues are prone to drying out in the nozzle. There's just no way around it. You are better off with two or three small tubes than one larger bottle, so that when one is too caked-up / dried out to use, you toss it and open the next.

All IMHO.

[fullmetaljacket]

Thanks for the replies guys. I know the thin cement does not work at all with GHQ or metal minis. Like you MK 1 i hate the large bottles that glues come in. When mixing its just like airbrushing or painting i always seem to make to much and waste it, or seem to make to little.

Once again thanks for the info.

fullmetaljacket

[Thomaso827]

I've had really good luck with the Locktite brand of 'superglue', and recently have been using the Gorilla brand clear cyano-acrilate glue. Both have been good at not drying out as long as I put the lid back on quickly. Both have about 5 or 6 seconds of time to position pieces. The Gorilla brand gives just a little bit longer. I count to 15 and have a great bond. I've also used a utility glue called 527. Used to be from Bondex but a different company makes it now, slightly smaller tube and slightly more expensive. Available at Michaels Crafts and Walmart. The Locktite bottle was great for small parts, and I used it a lot for putting the struts on WW1 aircraft models, so I needed enough time to put the upper wing on and make an adjustment to the strut before the glue set up. Right now, the Gorilla bottle has lasted for 2 months with all the work I have asked as well as a few times my wife got ahold of it and didnt get the lid on as quickly as I would have liked. Still going strong. The applicator tip isnt as small as that on the Locktite bottle but still allows a small drip to be applied with good control. And with the set-up time, I have not really glued any body parts to any model parts. A few close calls but in the end, everything was where I wanted it.

Tom

[Apachex]

I use BSI insta-cure (They make a range of CyA glues with different cure times) along with Insta-Set. The Insta Set is great because it causes the Cya to set the moment the spray hits it. The working time of the Insta-Cure allows you to position the piece and the insta set allows you to lock it in place instantly.

[av8rmongo]

Like Thomaso827 I use Locktite brand superglue gel. Bottle design gives very precise control over amount applied. The cap design prevents most of the drying/caking issues that plague super glues. And of course as already mentioned the gel allows longer working times and less chance of gluing myself to things.

Paul

[LAX_Kev]

I've been using "Zap-a-Gap" cyanoacrylate. I started using this long ago at the recommendation of a hobby store, and haven't really tried anything since. However, I often apply the stuff using a wooden toothpick as an application aide, to avoid using too much of it.
Kevin

[WargameHub]

I (and most of my club) also use Zap-a-Gap. One of my friends uses the gel version also.

[fishnoise]

I use the smallest tubes I can find of CA gel, whatever brand is cheapest at the time I'm shopping. I buy a package of four or more at a time.

When I'm done with a project, I throw away the rest of the opened tube. My two youngest are still within the inquisitive stage and it's just too dangerous to leave opened CA (i.e. with punctured seal, whether capped or not) about the garage or house. The non-gel is worse, since it can run more readily than someone might expect for a glue.

[Hobilar]

I normally use Zap-a-Gap to glue my 6mm stuff. However, lately I've just been using white glue to put the individual figures on their wooden bases. Seems to work ok so far and I've had no problems with the little guys popping off during play or transport. I decided to go this route after a particularly nasty rebasing session last year.

I mainly do 6mm WWII using the individual infantry packs and a few tanks for games like Crossfire, ASL, and Blitzkrieg Commander.