The enamels and acrylics Paint Debate

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 6:00 am

Hi Everyone,

Well have not started the models as of yet, but im just after general feedback and views of the paints that people use for there GHQ models.

I have used the Vallejo range on 15mm. And ages back Humbrol (been years)

Just wondering if you have a preference on the paint that you use and why

I appreciate any feedback

P.s has anyone tried the GHQ range of paints?

DrBig · Post by **DrBig** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 9:33 am

I use enamels. They are supposedly more robust than acrylics. But what really drove me to enamels was the extensive color range of Model Master & Humbrol. When I started, the only acrylic was Testors, which I find a pain in the buttocks to clean off brushes. Polly Scale was in limbo & Vallejo didn't exist in the States. If Vallejo &/or Polly Scale had been around, things would probably be different.

Vanvlak · Post by **Vanvlak** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 1:33 pm

cama wrote:So far I use only acrylics - GW (I got the whole line free)...

Wow, how do you achieve that?

Anyway - I use a mix of GW acrylics and model masters - the latter are thinner in consistency, need more layers, but are easier to get a good, consistent finish with.
Thinning and washing is easier with water-based paints, as is cleaning out brushes.
Then again, I recently bought a pair of Model Master enamels by mistake (the local model shop has two racks of the near identical tins next to each other, and a dodderhead like me makes that sort of error easily) - and I found their consistency to be even better.
The trouble with Malta is the high humidity, which plays merry hell with the application of acrylics, and their thickness and rate of drying etc. They're not impossible to use, but need a bit of care unless you want thick layers of paint-zimmerit or (conversely) a paint which works like a wash. And I mean the same tin on different days!
The Model Master enamels tend to behave nicely - although their solvent should be more volatile than water.
In short - I'm using both, often on the same model.

rct75001 · Post by **rct75001** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 4:09 pm

I use enamels for my microarmour - I find they are very robust and they lend themselves to washes and drybrushes well.

OTOH, I use Vallejo for my 20mm WWII uniforms as they are much quicker to dry and work well with the shadows and highlights.

razor · Post by **razor** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 8:01 pm

I usually use Testors MM2 for my micro with the exception of stowage, tires, and treads. For those I usually go with Vallejo or Polly Scale. I do like acrylics for camo patterns, both spray and brush, as my enamels seem to get pretty thick and I don't like them for detail or delicate work.

DrBig · Post by **DrBig** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:32 pm

OK, let me help with those struggling with enamels:

Cleaning brushes is much easier than water based. I find that water cleanups (whatever the brand) still leaves a determined residue at the base of the brush which builds up & eventually destroys the brush. With enamels, you have 3 jars, & clean the brushes like a bartender cleans beer mugs. You dip in the first jar, swirl, then second, then third, & it's 99.99% clean. I haven't had to replace brushes since I started enamels. Of course, that 1st wash jar is going to muck up in about 8 painting sessions, so you need a big solvent wasted jug & someplace to dispose of contents. I find thinner very very handy & effective for cleanup. To quote the Band of Brothers crazy Lt., "the reason you're scared [of thinner] is because you still have hope. But once you realize you're already dead, you'll then be able to properly function as a [enamels painter]."

predator06 · Post by **predator06** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:41 pm

Crayola. my favorite.

mlcolbert · Post by **mlcolbert** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:28 pm

I've got to admit, I dabble. mainly acrylics for minis up to 35mm although enamels for afvs of the 1/72nd scale, back to acrylics for 1/35th. But then a few months ago I heard about people using oils for minis as well, the 20-35 mm scales. I'm experimenting with that although not in the GHQ world. But..........????hmmm oils for 1/285th????/

michael

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:51 am

Thanks for your input everone, some interesting thoughts and feedback. Now just have to get going and get painting

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:38 pm

Wish we had such generous people over here

Well i will stick with the paints that i know best and thats acrylics. Now if i could just decide what i want to order for my second lot of MA i would be happy

Cav Dog · Post by **Cav Dog** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:03 am

Should acrylics be "baked" like enamels?

DrBig · Post by **DrBig** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 11:44 am

I've heard no.

Also, you don't have to bake enamels

tstockton · Post by **tstockton** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:39 pm

Dr. Big,

Also, you don't have to bake enamels

True... but from years ago, when I used enamels exclusively, and as I recall, baking the enamels does seem to improve their durabilty -- or "handle - worthy - ness", if I'm allowed to make up a word! I don't know if the heat from baking THOROUGHLY dries the paint, or maybe there is a slight "chemical / mechanical" change of the paint, to allow it to adhere to the painted surface more strongly... All I know is that it seemed to work very well. Oh, and that you had to be VERY careful if you were baking a plastic model... I overdid it one time and vowed to never bake a plastic model again!!

Regards,
Tom Stockton

jb · Post by jb » Sun Sep 17, 2006 5:28 am

tstockton wrote:

...Oh, and that you had to be VERY careful if you were baking a plastic model... I overdid it one time and vowed to never bake a plastic model again!! ...

sorry but I had to laugh,c'mon Tom What were you thinking man?

tstockton · Post by **tstockton** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 8:53 am

jb,

What were you thinking man?

Honestly, it's been so long ago, I don't fully recall what "thought" processes (if any!) were involved... I think I thought as long as I kept the oven "fairly cool" -- about 170Â° F or so -- that it would be fine. After all, water doesn't boil until it reaches 212Â° F... so what would 40Â° less heat do to a model?

Ummmm... bad move on my part.

If I recall correctly, it was a Monogram (?) 1:32 scale JgPz IV L/70... there wasn't even enough "usable" -- or barely recognizable -- parts left to garner anything for the scrap box. If I'd had some firecrackers or my trusty ol' BB gun, I might have had some small satisfaction with it. Instead, it all just went into the trash.

The scarier part is that I was old enough to know better... and old enough for alcohol to legally involved... but, no, no excuses along that line. I was old enough to have graduated from college, gotten a job, and moved out of home into my first apartment. Maybe if Mom or Dad had been around when I was heating up the oven, they'd smacked me up the side of the head and said "what in the world are you thinking!?" No, this one was just good ol' fashioned plain and simple stupidity. The only saving graces were (a) lesson learned (!!!) and (b) it was a model I'd picked up at a garage sale or something like that -- I just remember that I'd gotten it pretty cheaply.

Ah, the folly of youth...

Regards,
Tom