Protecting decals

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Luca
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Protecting decals

Post by Luca »

Hi!

I wondered what's the best mean to protect the decals applied on the tanks. I tried super glue, but is too risky. I tried gloss acrylic paint, but doesn't work.

Some tips? Bye!

Vagabond Elf
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Post by Vagabond Elf »

I don't decal tanks, but I do decal Star Trek ships, and for those I use ... hairspray. Mostly because I find it's a lot cheaper than dullcoat or what-have-you. Same net effect, though; you want some sort of laquer or varnish that you can spray on fairly lightly.

tstockton
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Post by tstockton »

Luca,

I use Testor's Dullcote; it is a lacquer-based clear coat, and is available in both bottles (for airbrushing) or in small (3 oz.? 4 oz.?) spray cans, which I always use. If you apply it in light coats, it will not "craze" decals or any other painted surface -- even acrylics.

The "hairspray trick" is one I've seen often, especially in the model railroading community -- but the articles I've seen use it as an adhesive rather than a protective finish.

From personal experience, I know that hairspray does adhere well to about any surface... while in our car, my lovely wife sprayed her hair with the stuff -- and at the same time "oversprayed" the stuff onto the side window. Repeated scrubbings have yet to completely clean the glass, and I think the only way I'll get it clean is to either use lacquer thinner -- or "scrape it" with a single-edged razor blade! However, it IS clear -- you don't notice it unless you focus your eyes directly on the plane of glass, rather than on what is outside the window.

One note -- I've read that many (most? all?) hairsprays are quite flammable... as with most things, ya gotta be careful how you use it!!

Hope this helps!

Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"

-- Major T. J. "King" Kong in "Dr. Strangelove"

SeaHarrier2006
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Post by SeaHarrier2006 »

Hi Luca,

I use Humbrol's MattCote to protect my decals. When I am painting Subbuteo Football Figures and I make my own decals, I put a very thin cote to help the decal fix to the model/figure, and then when the decal is fixed nicely to the model/figure, I apply another thin cote on the model which seals the decal to the model.

Hope this helps, and happy painting.

Mark. (SeaHarrier2006)
England expects every man will do his duty.

Admiral Horatio Nelson, at the Battle of Trafalger October 21st 1805.

Luca
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Post by Luca »

Very usefull as always Your adivices. I'll try both.

L.

Der Kommandeur
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Post by Der Kommandeur »

I think Humbrol have reformulated their Matt Cote product ... I began to get a soft sheen rather than a matt finish from a recently purchased bottle.

So I switched to Testors Dullcote ... it really is the 'mutts' ... it consistently dries flatter than a very flat thing.
Der Kommandeur
:: Been away but still painting ::

jtompk99
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Post by jtompk99 »

Same as SeaHarrier2006 ... BUT, I recommend using a gloss coat for your first layer. Provides way more protection to your overall model than the matte coat and it helps hide the clear part of the transfer. Then matte.
Joel T.

ferret701
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Post by ferret701 »

I'll put a second vote in for DullCote -- great stuff. Particularly good for taking away the shininess you get with some decals. Several coats will really protect your armor from most handling. However, with less reflectivity, the colors will be less distinct.

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