Making Bases

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1ComOpsCtr
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Making Bases

Post by 1ComOpsCtr »

Many of the pictures I will post here have been seen before. I use them again as part of the explanation and to illustrate the options for making bases for GHQ miniatures as well as other manufacturers miniatures that may be used within the same rules framework.

The two boxes you see to the right of the picture are cardboard Jewelry Boxes commercially available. The two boxes are vertical, illustrating the ability of the figure stands to remain attached to the magnetic base, therefore suffering much less damage during transit than plastic bases that will float free in transit without packing on top of them that can damage figures and equipment. The boxes normally come with a cotton insert that will help items stay in place even further. http://retailshoppingbags.com/cofijebo.html

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The bases to the left are metal and are available from: http://www.wargameaccessories.com The bases to the right are plastic "card stock" in the UK and/or "plastic sheets" in the US. They were scribed with a sharp #11 x-acto blade and "bent" until they snap off the sheet. Plastic is slightly less expensive but it is not as stable in transit over bumpy roads or by C-130 or C-17 (I speak from experience on this). Many of our bases (primarily infantry) have a small spike (dulled nail) attached at the center rear to allow for easier handling during a long simulation or convention games where every participant isn't as careful as you would like. The vehicles are either on small bases that just fit the vehicle or mounted on the 1" square bases similar to the GHQ rules suggest.

Another base resource: http://www.miniatureservicecenter.com/m ... .htm#metal

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In the picture above you can see two of the sizes we use for infantry bases. The 1/2" square for 1 to 2 figures, the 3/4" square base for 2 or 3 figures, and we usually use a 1" square base for 4 or 5 figures. In this picture you can also see the inside of the box top that has the layout and inventory for this particular box, which makes pick-up a whole lot easier after games. The unit information will also be on the top and side of each box for easy identification as you can see in the picture below. For conventions or large games you need as much organization as possible up front. We try to use these boxes for every unit in the games or simulations so participants can keep them together, and unobserved if they wish until they are ready to enter the game. The boxes below were first used for a simulation with the 3rd Bn, 24th Marines in 1997.

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The Viet Nam era Marines illustrated below show how you can use the base to convey the landscape of the theater of operations. It is hard to define the base in this picture but you can just see the edges if you look close. In this picture each base is a Marine Fire Team. The metal bases are also thinner and blend better than the plastic I used on the WW2 Panzer Grenadiers in the picture below the Marines.

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The Panzer Grenadiers pictured below are 15 years old. They were done before GHQ made their current line of infantry. The bases are plastic (that's all that was available at the time) with the handling spike.

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I have included the picture below so you can see how some of our vehicles are mounted on small (almost vehicle size) bases that are 1/2" wide and as long as needed. We do this for two reasons. First, because it looks good during convoy simulations and in games where there is lots of fighting on roads and in MOUT situations, and Second because it allows us to put a whole useful unit (see the Cav Troop above) in one box.

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Woodland Scenics materials may be obtained from Walthers through their web site at:
http://www.walthers.com/
...where you can also find the "Z" scale vehicles, the civilians, and animals in the picture below, as well as the ornamental fence you see around the grave yards in the piclture above. The tractors were converted from "charmes" from a craft shop.

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I hope this helps...

Will
Last edited by 1ComOpsCtr on Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster." - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 1844-1900

tstockton
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Post by tstockton »

Will -- and all...

First off, even if I'd seen all your pictures before (and I think there were a couple there that I hadn't), it is nice to see them again. And for the folks who are "just joining us" -- it's their first time around, so it's great for them, too!

Now, a question for you -- and the "and all" salutation at the beginning... I was at my local Wal-Mart the other day, and I saw (for lack of a better description) a roll of "magnetic tape". This was a relatively thin roll of a plastic (?), somehow made magnetic, with a vinyl backing... one would cut the desired length, attach the "magnetic tape" to the desired object, then "mount" the object to a refrigerator door or what-have-you. This was a 10' long roll of tape, 1" in width... if one were cutting 1" squares, one would get 120 of them -- and if I recall correctly, the cost was less than $5 for the roll.

Is this something that would be usable for basing Micro Armor / figures / artillery / whatever... or would it be "too flexible" for use? Or... could this be attached to (for example) 1" square plastic bases, thus allowing the completed stands to be transported in a metal container of some sort?

Just thought I'd pass this along for comments...

Regards,
Tom Stockton
"Well, I've been to one World's Fair, a picnic, and a rodeo, and that's the stupidest thing I ever heard come over a set of earphones. You sure you got today's codes?"

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1ComOpsCtr
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Post by 1ComOpsCtr »

Tom,

Thanks for you kind remarks. I don't know about magnetic tape, but I would be concerned because the tape starts out on a roll. Any time you deal with something that has been rolled for any length of time the stuff that is rolled tends to return to that shape over time. The magnetic business card holders start out flat, are packaged in stacks, and seem to remain flat and unmoving where I have placed them.

I use the small boxes pictured because they too are fixed in their size and shape from the beginning of their existence so they tend to remain in that shape even through years of handling and abuse. Some of the boxes and troops you have seen pictures of are more than 10 years old and have been handled roughly by hundreds of gamers and others who are not as careful as gamers.

I guess it's because our game system needs to travel a lot, going from Marine facilities to Army facilities, to conventions far away from St. Louis, that has made me pick materials that tend to "like" how they are used. I try not to force any material used for terrain or the packaging into a shape not normal for that material, thus allowing it to remain in the "natural shape" to which it was originally intended.

When you deal in a small scale like Micro-armor small differences through warpage really shows up... Magnetic tape on plastic may warp or distort the plastic making the base look funny... just a thought?

Will
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster." - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 1844-1900

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Post by retired_to_ft_living_room »

I use the same bases for my miniatures as 1ComOpsCtr does, but the roll of magnetic strip that tstockton is talking about, I use in my storage boxes to hold my minis. The advantage I find in using the magnetic roll is that it can be cut to the length I need for my various boxes.
"Only the dead have seen the end of war." - Plato

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Post by wilykylee2000 »

Initially i used magnetic tape rolls too but I located rolls of magentic sheeting on the internet and use that to coat the bottom of my carrying trays. I think it is 24" wide and as long as you want. You can cut out custom tray sizes. I use the metal bases or old german coins(magnetic) and washers to mount the armies. The sheeting is more functional and efficient than the tape in that it accomodates all sizes and shapes and you can rearrange as necesssary. Probably more expensive too, but when I spend so much time and $ on the miniatures, I cringe to think they'll be banging around unsecured.

I prefer to use 1/2 wide metal bases long enough to leave a bit of base behind the unit for marking purposes. I like the the aesthetic value rather than permantly securing my units to 1" wide bases. I thought about cutting some 1" magnetic squares out to attach to the undersides of the metal based stands if I use rules requiring 1" bases.
Wilykylee

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Post by Extra Crispy »

//shameless plug//

Gentlemen:
May I plug my one-stop shop for magnetic basing? In addition to the steel bases shown above, I sell Fox Bases which are magnetic, precut, preassembled and come in either 1.5mm or 3.0mm thicknesses. I also sell a corrugated carrying case ideal for miniatures. They come in two depths and are pre-lined with magnetic sheeting (which works with either steel or magnetic bases just fine).

http://www.scalecreep.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1217

Thanks.

//end plug//
Mark Severin
Owner, Scale Creep Miniatures
Author DeepFriedHappyMice.com

1ComOpsCtr
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DAK desert bases

Post by 1ComOpsCtr »

I've been experimenting with ways to produce the look of the desert in our scale and have come up with something interesting. As you know from above I use metal bases so that I can use boxes or trays with a magnetic base material to keep units in place and prevent damage.

This first picture is of the process, from bare metal on the right to finished base on the left. I apologize for the Mk-III in the pictures. It is one of the first GHQ miniatures I painted some 30+ years ago when we first did DAK games on the floor and on my basement sand table.

The base coat of the "stand" is Model Master Afrika Mustard. After the base coat dries I paint the stand with Elmer's White glue and dip it in flour, that's right, FLOUR. You can see the stand is white from the flour, which you allow to dry thoroughly.

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After the flour dries repaint the base with your base color (I recommend spray to protect the base surface until the paint dries which helps hold the flour in place) and let dry again. For vehicle bases I make two marks where the wheels or tracks have left their mark in the sand before I apply this color coat. You can do this with a lining brush to keep it straight.

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The picture above gives you a good view of what the surface looks like up close...

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This final picture shows two bases after the miniatures have been mounted and the tracks in the sand have been enhanced a little to make them more visible. Again I apologize for the Mk-III & Mk-IV, but it is what I have to work with at the moment. Most of the miniatures I will be using for this campaign are at least 33-35 years old from our original purchase from GHQ. Painting techniques have changed quite a bit since then as have the tanks, which have been recast and updated since these originals. We used Humbrol paints and baked everything. Both tanks need detailing, decals, and unit designation tags.

I will update this entry to show how I mark the bases (ID tags) as soon as I figure out how I want to do it...

Will
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster." - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 1844-1900

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Post by jb »

Will, nice step by step. To my horror I just saw the price on metal bases skyrocket. For a pack of 1" X1" ,is now $4.00 for 20,and 1" X 1.5" is $4.00 for 15 ! I used to get 36-40 for $3.00 :( . Fortunatly for me,I've been cutting my own as of recent.
John

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Post by 1ComOpsCtr »

jb,

On this site they are still listed at 36 for $5.00
http://www.wargameaccessories.com/warga ... al%20Bases

They haven't listed a price increase yet, so if there is going to be one I had better get on the ball and order more...

Will
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster." - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 1844-1900

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Post by ShortRound70 »

Will:

Great Idea for the metal bases. I never would have thought about using flour for the ground cover. I'll have to try it out. What program did you use to make the inventory sheet on the inside of the 107th Cav's box? Also, what size are the boxes? I know that you've posted that info before, but I don't recall where. :oops:

Eagle

Basing

Post by Eagle »

I prefer to mount infantry on plastic bases, with a flexable magnetic base attached under it. The plastic/magnet base combo works real well! Players can't get scratched and scenery can't get damaged by using this combo instead of metal bases. I have used both roll type and sheet magnets. Both will work, but the roll needs to be bent to get it to retain a flat shape. Since it comes sticky on one side, many times glue is not even needed. Storage can be in any box with a metal bottom.
I mount infantry, deployed artillery, towed artillery and anything like a jeep/trailer combination that needs the support afforded by basing it. Since I only game on a 1:1 basis, I don't base any other vehicles. I enjoy the more realistic appearance and gaming flexability afforded by keeping basing to an absolute minimum.


Eagle

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Post by 1ComOpsCtr »

ShortRound,

I use Corel Draw 9 (updated to 10), a rather old Graphics program, but really good for my needs. I did the picture, diagram actually, in the same program. With the games we do for conventions I do a picture of the box contents in Adobe Photo Shop and paste it into the lid so the convention gamers can see what goes where. Helps during clean-up after a 7-8 hour game.

The boxes are Jewelry Boxes from http://www.fetpak.com/whstore/main.pl/itl?43 which are fairly inexpensive. There are others available in colors from other sources, but these are a pretty good price at $.37 each for the size we use.

Hope this helps...

Eagle, I use small metal bases even on our AFV's, etc. so I can better organize and protect our miniatures during air travel (sometimes my jeep and I ride in the belly of a C-17) so I want everything to be as stable as possible. The boxes I use have cotton inserts, and I use beeswax to keep the turrets on the chassis. The boxes work really well becasue they stack in my transport case and they make handing out troops easy because each box is organized to fit the units the players will be using.

Will
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster." - Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche, 1844-1900

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Post by dougeagle »

I've always liked the idea of magnetic bases. I'm just too lazy to get a bundle to make them myself :)
Doug

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jb
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Post by jb »

1ComOpsCtr wrote:jb,

On this site they are still listed at 36 for $5.00
http://www.wargameaccessories.com/warga ... al%20Bases

They haven't listed a price increase yet, so if there is going to be one I had better get on the ball and order more...

Will
The price increase that I saw was on the website of my favorite hobby shop.They are also the "Wargame Accessorries" company,from Florida. Like I stated,I now cut my own.
So far I've had no wounded particpants from using them either.
John

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Post by ShortRound70 »

Will:
Thanks, it helps out a lot. I'm going to try to use Publisher for label making practice. If that doesn't work, I'll try something else. I've checked out the link you posted. Looks like what I am looking for. Thanks again.

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