Base size & decal problems

Sepp · Post by **Sepp** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:33 am

I am placing my models on 1inch by 1 inch bases as per GHQ the game,but what about the towed pieces? Do I make them 1 inch by the length of the combination ?
Also I am having a problem with the paint coming off when I apply micro sol/set for the decals,any suggestions!

dougeagle · Post by **dougeagle** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:51 am

I am placing my models on 1inch by 1 inch bases as per GHQ the game,but what about the towed pieces? Do I make them 1 inch by the length of the combination ?

Its whatever you feel like doing. For me, I don't worry about it as I just use the firing gun, turn it 180, make sure that the towing vehicle is in base to base contact and say that its being towed. I find that this is the simple way for it.
Although I have seen pictures of other gamers actually basing the gun and towing vehicle together on 1 base and when the weapon needs to be towed, they replace the deployed weapon with the towed version.

microgeorge · Post by **microgeorge** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:01 am

Sepp, base them on separate 1 x 1 bases. That is the designer's intent. Happy gaming!

chrisswim · Post by **chrisswim** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:12 am

I do not usually use bases. 99+% of my figures are not based. I only base when I have a towing vehicle and a gun/trailor together or some sort of command, radar/radio/jamming, etc collection on a base. I have combined M577 TOC with: M577, & Hummv, & radio hummv, Elint system hummv or generator trailor, along with the commanders Hummv.

intobattle · Post by **intobattle** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:53 am

Sepp,

As far as the paint coming off when applying the micro sol... have you tried applying a layer of dullcote (or glosscote - your preference) to the model before applying decals? That's the approach I take and haven't had any problems.

Tanner

tstockton · Post by **tstockton** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:41 am

Sepp,

I second infobatte's suggestion, but with one modification -- use Glosscote, or a similar, glossy finish, before you apply decals. With a dull (matte) finish, it is much more likely to get air trapped under the decal, resulting in a "milky" finsh in the clear parts of the decal -- as well as a poor adhesion to the model. I have had excellent results giving my models a glossy finish, applying decals, then applying Dullcote after the decals have thoroughly dried. If you don't want to give your models a glossy finish before decaling, apply a drop of Future liquid floor wax where you want the decal to be, then apply the decal. I would still recommend applying Dullcote after the decal dries, to protect the decal and help bind it to the model.

I also apply Dullcote (after decaling) before weathering my models -- the dull finish gives more "tooth" to my weathering efforts.

One quick note about Dullcote -- and I guess this applies to any paint -- don't apply a single, heavy coat -- but rather a few light coats, with sufficient drying time between coats. If I remember correctly, Dullcote is lacquer-based, and if applied too heavily, it could react with the acrylics or enamels it is applied on top of... But I've had absolutely no problems as long as I've applied a couple of light coats. And I use it straight from the spray can; I would imagine one could get even finer coats by airbrushing it...

Hope this helps!

Regards,
Tom Stockton

Sepp · Post by **Sepp** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:56 pm

Thanks for all the Info about size of bases and decals. Wow! having this forum makes
life so much easier and increases the fun of this hobby

Ritter · Post by **Ritter** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:58 am

Here is my method, super easy and wargame tested. This method will produce a decal that is super resistant to rubbing or flaking off. Also the edges will blend in so that there is no raised edge or noticeable seam-line.

Finish model except for mud and dirt if desired, before adding any dulcote.

Mix up a glue solution from either white glue and water or Modge-podge. This should be the consistency of watery milk.

Cut decal from sheet as close as possible to colored portions. A new x-acto and mag-glasses helps. Moisten decal in warm water on a plate.

Put a drop of water/glue on model where you want decal.

Position decal with small paintbrush. Let dry.

Add a drop of decal-set solution such as decal-set or Micro-sol. Don't move decal! Let dry thoroughly.

Add a final drop of water/glue to top of decal. Let dry - COMPLETELY!!

Add mud and/or dirt.

Dulcote.

Troy

BattlerBritain · Post by **BattlerBritain** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:52 pm

I can consur that Troy's decal system is without THE BEST method I have ever used.

I've spent years trying to get them little ****ers to stay on with all the expensive Micro-water-You-gotta-use-this systems and they've all been outstanding wastes of time and money.

I actually use watered down PVA glue (as called in the UK) and I don't even need to matt coat it when it's dry as it dries flat anyway. It's the same stuff I use to flock the bases with as well, so even better.

Troy - you're a star

Cheers Dood,

Battler.

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