Scenery Questions

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rommel58
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Scenery Questions

Post by rommel58 »

Hellllllllllooooooooo!!!!!! everyone on the GHQ forum, this is my fist post :D

i have a few questions to ask about scenery.

1) what are people using to make realistic water?

2) does anyone know how to make realistic shell holes?.

3) for Ritterkreig, on your website, what do you use for haystacks?

Pics would be extremely helpful

Thanks a lot guys. you inspire me with your master pieces :wink:
In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Field Marshal Erwin Rommel
http://www.ingloriousbasers.blogspot.com/

Donald M. Scheef
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Post by Donald M. Scheef »

Welcome to the GHQ Military Models Forum. Sorry, but I am not very good with scenery myself. I'm sure that you will get assistance from others.

Don S.

rommel58
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Post by rommel58 »

Thanks for taking the time to welcome me, i appreciate stuff like that 8)
In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Field Marshal Erwin Rommel
http://www.ingloriousbasers.blogspot.com/

fullmetaljacket
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Post by fullmetaljacket »

Good question thread i have one pertaing to scenery.

1. In most micro games how do you all handle, when moving units thru wooded areas? I guess is do you all mostly play tree for tree, in other words its where it really is? Or do most abstract or artifact trees?

fullmetaljacket

Mk 1
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Post by Mk 1 »

Welcome indeed! :P

As to scenery ... before I try to answer any individual question, it might help if you describe your general approach to scenery. Are you doing GHQ Terrain Maker tiles? Some other form of tile-based game-boards? A sand table? Or some-earth-toned-cloth-and-bits-of-stuff-on-any-table-you-can-find?

My approach is generally in the last category. :lol: But I've played on some mighty fine gaming boards in my time.

For the cloth-and-bits approach, I have made a significant switch in just the last year or so. I am now following the MLuther school of gaming terrain. Mark Luther (mluther on this forum, may be different names in other fora) has shown many games in the "Show us yer games" thread that have remarkable terrain. He has very generously shared his approach and answered many questions put to him. He is the master in this, I am but a student.

The general approach is to use a reasonably thin cloth as your base. Not thick felt, as many gamers (including me in former years) might use. Mark Luther uses colored bedsheets. I have chosen cotton canvas. But I'm thinking bedsheets would have been as good if not better.

The elevations go UNDER the cloth. Roads, slopes and water-courses are DRAWN directly on the cloth using pastels. Vegetation is then added on top of the cloth, using adhesive spray from the sewing supplies store.

Here is a pic from a game I did last fall -- this was the Italian Livorno Division advancing on Loboikivka in in 1941.

Image
The Italians were advancing along a roadway that ran past a slow marshy stream. The Soviets were trying to avoid encirclement by retreating through the advancing Italians, crossing the wooden bridge and reaching the same road the Italians were using.

I used several different pastels. Four tones of green, with a little spray adhesive and static grass for the marshy areas, and two tones of green for the banks of the river where it had deep water. The water itself had 3 tones of blue, going from light near the banks to dark in the middle. (So also the dirt roads were done with 4 shades of tan/brown.) This is not as complicated as it seams -- with pastels you just scribble it one, and rub it around a bit to blend it together. Worked pretty well.

(But I'm not as sure on the cloth. I had chosen canvas in the hope that a stiffer cloth would be less prone to wrinkles. But I now believe that it may be easier to conform a lighter cloth to the elevations without wrinkles appearing. Still learning, I am...)

Hope that helps.
-Mark 1
Difficile est, saturam non scribere.
"It is hard NOT to write satire." - Decimus Iunius Juvenalis, 1st Century AD

rommel58
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Post by rommel58 »

Hi Mk1, i love your idea of using pennies for infantry. i am using terrain maker tiles, i
will try to post some pics as soon as i can on this topic or on the "Show us yer stuff"
topic.

thanks for the pics!
In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Field Marshal Erwin Rommel
http://www.ingloriousbasers.blogspot.com/

HKurban
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Post by HKurban »

I have terrain maker tiles as well. GHQ has some tutorials on making terrain maker style terrain here:

http://www.ghqmodels.com/pages/military/flat.asp
http://www.ghqmodels.com/pages/military/stream.asp
http://www.ghqmodels.com/pages/military/hill.asp
http://www.ghqmodels.com/pages/military/desert.asp
http://www.ghqmodels.com/pages/military/winter.asp

While I haven't gotten to making any water yet, I have a bottle of woodland scenics' realistic water (no link as per GHQ's Rules). The biggest problem with this product is that I will have to contain each tile's water system with some sort of barrier until it hardens. It looks pretty realistic on model railroad sets, and I've seen is used on other game boards to good effect, but using it with tiles will be quite tricky.
Its a sniper rifle, not a "sniper"! You don't call an assault rifle an "assault"!

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rommel58
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Post by rommel58 »

thanks HKurban, i was thinking of using realistic water but was not sure what other people were using and if it were better :)
In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Field Marshal Erwin Rommel
http://www.ingloriousbasers.blogspot.com/

WHM
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Post by WHM »

Hello rommel;

If your using terrain hexes to make shell holes just use an Xacto knife to got pot a crater and use black to paint in the creater and around the it over the grass.

Even though you did not ask the 1/4in hexes can be used for foxho;es and entrenchmants. I've seem where these were scratched built but they are above ground. When using the 1/4 hexes you are below ground.

Quartette
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Post by Quartette »

As we are on the topic of water:

I am thinking of making a sand table, does anyone have any experience of using some sort of resin to make water?

If using watered down white glue to 'seal' the top of the table has anyone then filled any depressions with resin to create lakes etc?

Tips? Suggestions? Problems encountered?
Cave Ab Homine Unius Libri

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Post by Cav Dog »

I have used Woodland Scenics water, Liqui-tex, you name it. Nothing was completely satisfactory. I have found the easiest method is to form your water course then paint the bottom dark gray. Add successive washes of blues and greens. More blue for deeper water, more greens for shallower areas. Add browns as appropriate to model muddy tributaries. Drybrush a couple of lighter blues, greens or browns depending on your desired result. Add white highlights very sparingly to simulate eddies or waves. Finish with a couple of thick coats of gloss varnish. The key is to use washes and make sure they dry between coats to add depth.

Image
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6mmwargaming
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Post by 6mmwargaming »

I tried Woodland Scenics realistic water but it is still sticky after a couple of years. PVA (white wood glue) is a good option as it dries clear and is durable. You could also mix some inks into it to give the effect of shading in the water.

Haystacks are tricky and i've never found a good method for those.

If you using terrain boards then it should be easy to cut with a knife or melt with a soldering iron, a hole and then put a bit of ground texture around the edges and paint. Maybe add some water to the bottom to make it look like it has been raining.

I've got a few terrain suggestions on my 6m site as well here http://6mm.wargaming.info/page3.shtml

Cheers
Kieran

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