Micronaut Only Thread

[Mikee]

For the most part the Japanese used dark gray for hulls and linoleum for decks. Each major shipyard seems to have had its own version of dark gray, and that even varied over time. "Snyder and Short" has paint chip sets showing the different grays and the linoleum color used by the IJN, plus other colors. Their first paint chip set (I think thy have two IJN paint ship sets, but I don't have a copy of the second one) also shows the greens that were used on their carriers late in the war. White Ensign Models (WEM) has the IJN colors in enamel, if you are interested in enamel paint, but due to recent shipping restrictions its very hard to get their paints. (They are in the U.K.) I.m not sure who has accurate water-based paints; if you are interested you might contact Snyder & Short. My experience is that Randy Short likes to talk ships and camouflage.

I don't have Snyder & Short's email address at hand, but they're an easy "Google."

I might mention that I've been using WEM paints on my IJN fleet, and have gotten lots of information - and paints - from S&S to help me

[Sudwind]

The Polly-S line, which is till available in the new formula iirc, has the paints you need. They have different grey paints based on which Japanese navy yard built the ship. They also have the light green colors used on late war carriers. I prefer their defunct old formula, but they still are good acrylic paints!

[Sudwind]

The Polly-S line, which is till available in the new formula iirc, has the paints you need. They have different grey paints based on which Japanese navy yard built the ship. They also have the light green colors used on late war carriers. I prefer their defunct old formula, but they still are good acrylic paints!

[KILLroy1978]

Thanks for the information everyone.

So many build/paint projects and so little time.. lol.

[ExGGFG]

Luca and Foxbat - great pics both you! Ships look terrific. I really liked the Japanese steaming in formation.

Nice work guys.

[ExGGFG]

Hey guys,

Since this *is* a Micronaut thread here's my first effort in what is to be a multi-year project. I'd like to try to represent every ship that was at the Battle of Trafalgar.

First attempt is HMS Agamemnon. This still needs rigging (which I'm scared to try just yet, plus I forgot to drill out the mast channels on this one), plus flags/pennants and a name tag. But I'm pleased with the results and thought I'd show it off.

Hope you like!



HMS Agamemnon_2 by exggfg, on Flickr


HMS Agamemnon_1 by exggfg, on Flickr

[Luca]

the four Myokos

[33YearsGHQ]

Luca, beautiful work. Very crisp with just the right amount of washing and dry brushing

[ExGGFG]

Nice Luca. I like the lighter shrouds on the barrels. Nice touch of detail. Good looking ships. I may have to add one of those to my Japanese fleet now.

[Unfathomable]

Luca, those are wonderful - and so are the sails on the wooden walls on the previous page; the texture on the sails are so excellently realised.

I know people always ask this when good pictures are posted, but how oh how do you get the wash just so? I never tire of hearing advice, particularly as I'm yet to get any worthwhile results myself.

Post more!

[Luca]

Thank you all for the compliments. I think that I'm more skilled in painting ships than tanks.

I made some experiments with the washings, and this is my formula:

- base coat the model with a colour close to the final result. In the case of the Japanese ships, I base coat them in grey. Doing so I'm sure that all the small angles of the model are properly painted.

- paint separately the various pieces that may cause problems if glued first and then painted. In the case of the IJN ships with the linoleum deck, If the fore bridge is not already molded to the model, I take particular attention in painting the lower part of the bridge, so I don't have to think about the various spils of gray paint on the deck or of linoleum on the vertical surfaces of the bridge.

- Add just one or two little details, like the barrel covers on the Myokos. Too much detail and the balanced outcome will be lost. No details will make the ship poor (This may happen to the little ships like the Destroyers).

- After the painting is done, I apply a coat of matt varnish. This is done to flatten all the micro surfaces of the paint, especially when using acrilic based paints. The enamels are usually more liquid and do not create rough surfaces. This is important because the black wash to work properly needs a really flat surface.

- I use the dark tone of Army Painter brand. It is a great product, easy to use. I simply dip the brush all over the model with a lot of this black wash. Really a lot. I just scrub away a little of it from the vertical surface of the hull, just to make it sure that it keeps it bright.

- After it dries, I prepare the paint for the dry brush. I use the base tone used for the ship (for the japanese the Grey I previously used), and I add some white. Not just a little, but a lot. Then I dry brush all the angles, not the surfaces (I'm not still that good at trying that).

The final result is very clean and crisp. If the black wash worked properly, the flat surfaces will be lighter than the cavities, and the dry brush will highlight even more the angles.

I'm really happy at painting ships because to mee it is comparatevly easier and faster than painting tanks.

In these days I'm painting some micro armor, but as soon I'm done with it, I'll return to paint ships.

[ExGGFG]

I also use the Army Painter washes, which I'm really hooked on. Remember that Staples "Easy Button". There ya go. LOL It really is an amazing product.

For my WWII ships (several pages back in this thread now I think) I have actually started doing things a little differently. conventional wisdom is 'first wash, then drybrush', but for my ships I am now drybrushing very heavily (typically with a light gray or even just pure white) and then doing the army painter wash over that. The effect is to mute the white colour, but still show the crisp edge detail and nice highlights, while also getting very deep shadows in all the right places.

The Army Painter product is, I believe, similar to the older 'magic wash' process as it was known. That uses, I think, Future Floor Polish mixed into a wash, which gives it very different properties from a normal diluted wash, and allows it not show drying circles and rings, and to pool exactly where it should around details, but to run off highlight areas.

I never mixed any up myself, so google it and I'm sure you'll find more details. The Army Painter stuff is extortionately expensive, but for the amount I'm using it now and how long it will last, it's an investment.

My WWII ships are done with Dark Tone which tends to the blacker side, while my Napoleonic ship was done with Strong Tone, which is a more brown shade and not as dark.

Thanks for the complements on the ship, BTW. Sails were done with base coat of German Camo Beige (Vallejo), brown wash (acrylic), block painting leaving wash showing in creases, a drybrush of Iraqi Sand (Vallejo) and then lightened with some white, and finally the Strong Tone over it all to blend it all together and soften everything.

[Unfathomable]

Luca and ExGGFG,

Thanks a million for the detailed replies. It's really cool when people take the time to talk through a few steps and add depth to an explanation. Much appreciated.

Oddly enough, I've just purchased a can of the Army Painter mid-tone - right before reading these three replies. Am still experimenting with it. Maybe I'm just crap with washes (hey, some people can catch a ball and some just can't) but I can get the Army Painter to give a new overall effect, dulling the model down, but I can't really control it very well. It feels very all-or-nothing. And even after Matte coat mine are still a touch "toffee apple".

Looks great on those IJN beasts, though. Really helps with that somewhat menacing latter-war junkyard dog look they had going: low, rough, slouched. You've brought that out really well.

Thanks again.

[tstockton]

Gentlemen,

I've noted you've used Army Painter washes, so I checked on You Tube for videos as well as checked their website.

Army Painter shows a list price of $29.90 per can of wash, but no mention of (a) what size can, and (b) how many figures you can "wash" from one can.

The price concerns me -- $30 bucks for one can of wash seems a little steep. I do realize that there is nothing cheap in our hobbies, and the adage "You get what you pay for" holds very true here.

I would appreciate it if one (or more) would share a "review" of their experiences with the Army Painter washes; cost effectiveness, ease of use, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Regards,
Tom Stockton

[ExGGFG]

So far I haven't finished a can. I accidentally wrecked the lid on one tin, and the stuff dried out into a jellly-like mass, which I could never return to the right consistency, so I tossed. That was kind of annoying. But generally I've only used up an inch or so of a tin, as I just brush it onto figures, and don't actually dip them. I'm sure if I was doing 28mm figs, dipping might make sense, but for 15mm, 1:2400 & 1:1200, it's just easiest to brush it on.

The size of the tin is 250ml (the size of a small grenade? LOL). It is expensive, but you'll be using it for ages, and for bang for your buck, I can't think of too many other products that offer similar results.