Can anyone let me know the size of the WW2 ships ? How many inches are each class
like destroyers , crusiers, battleships and carriers.
Thanks
Nepty
Size of WW2 Ships
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LAX_Kev
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2005 5:23 am
- Location: Austin, TX
Ahoy Nepty!
The math of 1/2400 scale is that 1 inch on the model equals 200 feet in real life.
So with that, here's a few examples:
Fletcher class destroyer: real life length = 376 feet Model USN-11: 1 7/8 inches
Atlanta class light AA cruiser: real life = 541 feet Model USN-6 2 3/4 inches
Cleveland class light cruiser: real life = 610 feet Model USN-13: a little over 3 inches
Baltimore class heavy cruiser: real life = 673 feet Model USN-4: a little over 3 1/4 inches
Iowa class battleship: real life = 887 feet Model USN-30: 4 3/8 inches
Hornet (CV-8) class aircraft carrier: real life = 824 feet Model USN-31: 4 1/8 inches
This should give you a good idea!
Cheers!!
Kevin
The math of 1/2400 scale is that 1 inch on the model equals 200 feet in real life.
So with that, here's a few examples:
Fletcher class destroyer: real life length = 376 feet Model USN-11: 1 7/8 inches
Atlanta class light AA cruiser: real life = 541 feet Model USN-6 2 3/4 inches
Cleveland class light cruiser: real life = 610 feet Model USN-13: a little over 3 inches
Baltimore class heavy cruiser: real life = 673 feet Model USN-4: a little over 3 1/4 inches
Iowa class battleship: real life = 887 feet Model USN-30: 4 3/8 inches
Hornet (CV-8) class aircraft carrier: real life = 824 feet Model USN-31: 4 1/8 inches
This should give you a good idea!
Cheers!!
Kevin
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The Real Bill
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2017 3:55 am
The size of the model depends on the size of the ship. The ships are all 1/2400 scale, so the ship model will be 1/2400th the length of the real ship. Look up how long the real ship is, and then divide it by 2400. If you are looking for the length of the ship in inches, then figure out the length of the real ship in inches before you divide by 2400. All of the destroyers are not the same size, just like the real ones aren't the same size. The same is true of the cruisers, battleships, carriers, etc.
I don't use Wikipedia as an end-all, be-all reference, but on things like the ship lengths I have found it to be generally accurate, and the layout of the listings for ships is usually really quick and easy to find the specs. This is usually true for armor too. However, it is always good to check the data against another site or two.
I hope that this helps.
I don't use Wikipedia as an end-all, be-all reference, but on things like the ship lengths I have found it to be generally accurate, and the layout of the listings for ships is usually really quick and easy to find the specs. This is usually true for armor too. However, it is always good to check the data against another site or two.
I hope that this helps.
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Nepty
- E5
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:57 pm
Gaming surface and rules
Thank you for your answers about size.
Another question about playing surface and rules.
Do you play on a hexagon printed map and what size hexes should be used for this scale.?
Also what rules do you use ?
I have rules from an old Avalon Hill game called Victory in the Pacific.
They are very simple maybe not realistic but the game was lots of fun.
My two uncles were in the navy during WW2. One was on the USS Arkansas and the other was on the USS Wichita. Both saw a lot of action. I even have the Wichita's ship book that was given to my uncle. I treasure that book.
Thanks,
Nepty
Another question about playing surface and rules.
Do you play on a hexagon printed map and what size hexes should be used for this scale.?
Also what rules do you use ?
I have rules from an old Avalon Hill game called Victory in the Pacific.
They are very simple maybe not realistic but the game was lots of fun.
My two uncles were in the navy during WW2. One was on the USS Arkansas and the other was on the USS Wichita. Both saw a lot of action. I even have the Wichita's ship book that was given to my uncle. I treasure that book.
Thanks,
Nepty
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RedDragon
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2015 4:08 pm
- Location: CA
Nepty,
I have the Seakrieg 4 Rules as well as Command at Sea 4 but have not been able to try them for lack of a willing partner. I however have played a fair bit of General Quarters 3[.3] (GQ3). I really like most things about that system and think they deal pretty well with larger engagements that I expect would simply take too long with the other two systems. A nice feature is that movement & turn gauges are available in a variety of scales so you can adjust down if gaming space is tight.
I also own General Quarters 1 & 2 (GQ2) which are each a small pamphlet which are complimentary & not actually two different systems. I haven't played but they are much more abstracted so should provide much faster results.
I have played Mongoose Publishing's Victory at Sea which is another entry-level, accessible type Naval War-game but has the virtue (in my opinion) of not abstracting things to the degree of GQ1/2. I like that the weapon systems are not agglomerated into a single generic "Attack Factor" for a ship, so you can still learn about/recognize ships and classes from their data cards.
I do recall that the speed ratings (probably due to using inches at this scale) is not very granular so that leads to some odd max speeds. The use of Six-Sided-Dice is another simplifying feature that not everyone can tolerate. The point-allocation system for a-historical engagements or campaigns can be replaced with whatever you want, so don't get hung up on it if you don't like it. Frankly I would recommend it for someone who wants to test out Naval War-gaming without counting every rivet (especially since ships can have quite a few more than tanks).
There are other systems out there, Naval Thunder is one I have heard of but know very little about.
Here is a link to the TMP WW2 Naval Rules directory: http://theminiaturespage.com/rules/inde ... tle&page=1 (don't miss the second page)
The Naval miniatures games I have played with hexes have made me feel rather straight-jacketed but there are arguments to be made for and against using hexes (they certainly make determining broadsides very quick and natural).
I wouldn't worry too much about your play surface appearance as long as it is very large, very stable, very flat & seamless. I don't really like felt drop-cloths due to increased snagging issues but it can be done. Fortunately my local game store has a permanent, textured but flat white-blue ice-world table which works very well for foamy and/or very cold waters or even very glassy water reflecting white clouds. Anyways there is great variation in the appearance of oceans so no need to get carried away with that right out of the gate.
Welcome to the hobby!
I have the Seakrieg 4 Rules as well as Command at Sea 4 but have not been able to try them for lack of a willing partner. I however have played a fair bit of General Quarters 3[.3] (GQ3). I really like most things about that system and think they deal pretty well with larger engagements that I expect would simply take too long with the other two systems. A nice feature is that movement & turn gauges are available in a variety of scales so you can adjust down if gaming space is tight.
I also own General Quarters 1 & 2 (GQ2) which are each a small pamphlet which are complimentary & not actually two different systems. I haven't played but they are much more abstracted so should provide much faster results.
I have played Mongoose Publishing's Victory at Sea which is another entry-level, accessible type Naval War-game but has the virtue (in my opinion) of not abstracting things to the degree of GQ1/2. I like that the weapon systems are not agglomerated into a single generic "Attack Factor" for a ship, so you can still learn about/recognize ships and classes from their data cards.
I do recall that the speed ratings (probably due to using inches at this scale) is not very granular so that leads to some odd max speeds. The use of Six-Sided-Dice is another simplifying feature that not everyone can tolerate. The point-allocation system for a-historical engagements or campaigns can be replaced with whatever you want, so don't get hung up on it if you don't like it. Frankly I would recommend it for someone who wants to test out Naval War-gaming without counting every rivet (especially since ships can have quite a few more than tanks).
There are other systems out there, Naval Thunder is one I have heard of but know very little about.
Here is a link to the TMP WW2 Naval Rules directory: http://theminiaturespage.com/rules/inde ... tle&page=1 (don't miss the second page)
The Naval miniatures games I have played with hexes have made me feel rather straight-jacketed but there are arguments to be made for and against using hexes (they certainly make determining broadsides very quick and natural).
I wouldn't worry too much about your play surface appearance as long as it is very large, very stable, very flat & seamless. I don't really like felt drop-cloths due to increased snagging issues but it can be done. Fortunately my local game store has a permanent, textured but flat white-blue ice-world table which works very well for foamy and/or very cold waters or even very glassy water reflecting white clouds. Anyways there is great variation in the appearance of oceans so no need to get carried away with that right out of the gate.
Welcome to the hobby!
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RedDragon
- Posts: 77
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2015 4:08 pm
- Location: CA
I actually referenced this positive review of Victory at Sea from when it was released since I am not at home:
http://www.armchairgeneral.com/victory- ... review.htm.
A few supplementary books were subsequently published:
A supplement to the rules entitled Victory At Sea - Order of Battle, including expanded ship lists and new rules, was written during 2007. An official World War I variant entitled Victory at Sea - Age of Dreadnoughts, written by David Manley was published in 2008. Apparently this was itself supplemented by Victory at Sea: Far Flung Seas in 2012.
http://www.armchairgeneral.com/victory- ... review.htm.
A few supplementary books were subsequently published:
A supplement to the rules entitled Victory At Sea - Order of Battle, including expanded ship lists and new rules, was written during 2007. An official World War I variant entitled Victory at Sea - Age of Dreadnoughts, written by David Manley was published in 2008. Apparently this was itself supplemented by Victory at Sea: Far Flung Seas in 2012.